Monday, January 26, 2009

Aramis - Bermuda Tonic

PINEAPPLE EXPRESS. In the present cold and dark European winter, one's mind easily wanders away toward carefree summer days and dreams of a nice tropical vacation. Very light and breezy and not something for a cold climate or mindset - Bermuda Tonic from Estée Lauders Aramis-line is just what would suit such a day of relaxing in the sun.

his is basically a "resort fragrance", very Piña Colada-ish featuring a pleasant blend of bitter rhum, sweet coconut and juicy pineapples. The overall impression is very crisp with a lightly salty touch reminiscent of sea and wind. A slightly astringent lime remains troughout the development of the fragrance.

This is a tonic however and intentionally designed to be sprayed very liberally since it's quite weak- so beware of seriously fleeting character.

losest sibling is Creed's Virgin Island Water and whilst the latter is definitely the better of the two, it's hardly worth the much steeper price.

o conclude, Bermuda Tonic is a good, fun and leisure fragragrance. In it's inviting packaging, it was a nice 2005 release of Lauder and a welcome strenghtening of their portfolio after some dissapointing launches.

Year of Launch:
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Creed Virgin Island Water, Calvin Klein Obsession Night for Men, Jil Sander Sun
Longevity & Sillage: Both below average
Overall Rating: 6/1o

Sunday, January 4, 2009

The Citrus Anatomy Part IV – Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée

Jacques Polge’s flawless 1989 update of the classic Pour Monsieur is indeed stronger compared to the original, but above all of a superior craft. It feels considerably more modern, but not edgy in any way. Added to the wonderful initial blasts of various citrus fruits are clear notes of nutmeg, cardamom and something smelling slightly like coconut. The basenotes feature a sweet creaminess, an oriental vanilla not unlike the one found in numerous Guerlain perfumes, that is perfectly balanced with the by then fading spices and dry mossy heart.

Pour Monsieur Concentrée is actually more reminiscent of Dior´s Eau Sauvage than the original Pour Monsieur, the latter being a straightforward citrusy chypre while both PMC and Eau Sauvage transcend traditional categorization and have way more intangible compositions. In my experience the truly great citrus fragrances have at least one of two parameters: Superior, often natural smelling ingredients, like Eau de Rochas Pour Homme and Annick Goutal´s Eau de Hadrien, or a level of abstraction that makes them rise above the genre in general, like New York from Parfums de Nicolaï. This Chanel easily fulfills both those criteria. Comfortable and truly a class act.
Overall rating: 7/10