tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7014904889709491442024-03-05T06:22:04.662-08:00MonkeymanmattMusings from the fragrant side of lifeMonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.comBlogger65125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-58907130486748210682012-04-11T05:16:00.009-07:002012-04-11T23:22:22.481-07:00Hermès - Voyage d' Hermès Parfum<span style="font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcO4uZeu8WBK7vpXHh4-zo1ZBPOQMOtKuysaWgq120UvlKyHfvjINOXGQWngDgi7oo5a7FgmQGRci_ZuVYxFMQnFvQObPrc4llpoSx6A3A8cBhLs808XFN4iht99nebX-6Gn-HT5sH-333/s1600/Voyage.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; width: 320px; height: 286px; text-align: center; display: block; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730130464405681570" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcO4uZeu8WBK7vpXHh4-zo1ZBPOQMOtKuysaWgq120UvlKyHfvjINOXGQWngDgi7oo5a7FgmQGRci_ZuVYxFMQnFvQObPrc4llpoSx6A3A8cBhLs808XFN4iht99nebX-6Gn-HT5sH-333/s320/Voyage.jpg" /></a>AN EVEN SMOOTHER RIDE. This years introduction of an intense version (pure perfume) of the original </span><i style="font-weight: normal; ">Voyage </i>will surely please many since the original (Eau de Toilette) was widely considered too weak and fleeting. Personally I didn't have any particular longevity issues with the latter. I did however immensely enjoy its peppery, white musk soapy freshness. <p align="justify" style="font-weight: normal; "><span style="font-style: normal; "><span style="font-size:130%;">T</span>hose characteristics pretty much remain in the top notes of this update, now mingling with the added heart and base of rose and soft amber. The signature cardamom of </span><i>Jean-Claude Ellena</i> blends exceptionally well with the new somewhat warmer accord. The overall impression of the drydown is that of an rare oriental tea with hints of fizzy citrus, astringent herbs and honeyed blond woods. Crisp juniper adds a dry cleanliness. Elegant and somewhat restrained - as most often with this house.</p><p align="justify" style="font-style: normal; "><span style="font-weight: normal; font-size: 130%; ">T</span>he <b>Hermès </b>copy presenting this as an evening version of the original is quite clever and spot on. Whereas the original with it´s translucent lemon tang and peppery cedar serves as the perfect morning tonic, the intense version with it´s more seamless progression and soft ambery edges would be an ideal companion for a night out with dinner and opera. Both are excellent and complement each other beatifully.</p><p align="justify" style="font-style: normal; "><b>Year of Launch:</b><span style="font-weight: normal; "> 2012</span></p><p align="justify" style="font-style: normal; "><span style="font-size: 100%; text-align: left; "><b>Gender Classification:</b> Unisex</span></p><p align="justify" style="font-style: normal; "><b>Reminiscent of:</b><span style="font-weight: normal; "> Editions de Parfums de Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie, Penhaligon´s Juniper Sling</span></p><p align="justify" style="font-style: normal; "><b>Longevity & Sillage:</b><span style="font-weight: normal; "> Moderate sillage, above average longevity</span></p><p align="justify" style="font-style: normal; "><b>Overall Rating:</b><span style="font-weight: normal; "> 7/1o</span></p>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-6267783913212473922012-02-04T07:00:00.000-08:002012-02-04T07:41:37.991-08:00Speed Review: Viktor & Rolf - Spicebomb<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-nINcvcX9TDdPuPX65X6cAkIEtL-dYmtniaXLj9B0SpCsKumpEhP3r3dk1IHw7a_szmfwXxQrP1LCtRFQ7QifNju_FuM0HR5Wd5Nzrc_ATl4x1yz2ts9cqWTEnxThaOO4AbUWCvFcvun/s1600/Viktor-Rolf-SpiceBomb-620x380.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 196px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-nINcvcX9TDdPuPX65X6cAkIEtL-dYmtniaXLj9B0SpCsKumpEhP3r3dk1IHw7a_szmfwXxQrP1LCtRFQ7QifNju_FuM0HR5Wd5Nzrc_ATl4x1yz2ts9cqWTEnxThaOO4AbUWCvFcvun/s320/Viktor-Rolf-SpiceBomb-620x380.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705304436181984402" /></a><br /><br /><b>Year of launch: </b>2012<br /><div><span><span><b>Gender classification: </b>Masculine</span></span></div><div><b>Perfumer:</b> Olivier Polge</div><div><b>Availability:</b> In production</div><div><span><span><b>Dominant Notes:</b> bergamot, pink pepper, cinnamon, vetiver, red pepper, tobacco accord, chili, saffron, leather, grapefruit and elemi.</span></span><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 22px; "><span><span></span></span></span></div><div><b>Reminiscent of:</b> Kenzo Power, Tommy Hilfiger Loud, Paul Smith Man</div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 199px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDhIuJ4w60SlxNZhg7pcvY6TwXEt99x9GcckYXway3KcOCfJx7byt1qIATU0NtbffjaTvnwmZrXP3zBHGfbsPEALKbWuXRRO6xVOhzZiDjn3CA6W66bq9OPwKSxEZObZ-hWc4Zy3YiPQxO/s200/productimage-picture-q1027-9813-999-black-paisley-110-wide-5890_jpg_450x450_q85.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705304557150936946" /><div><b>Packaging & Design: </b>Stylized Hand grenade heavy smoked glass flacon, designed by Fabien Baron</div><div><b>Longevity & Sillage: </b>Standard sillage, well above average longevity - really clings to skin</div><div><b>5 adjectives: </b>Powdery, androgynous, clean, tart, contemporary</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Overall rating: </b>6/10</div><div><div style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><div></div></div></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-46178352128085126042011-12-29T14:24:00.000-08:002011-12-29T16:47:49.362-08:00L'Artisan Parfumeur - Ecrin d’Eaux de Toilette - Les Masculins - Holiday 2011<span><br /></span><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2oPmt1HzJ0KB25_1PoVI4HfYXtW3INx3f0aE0guHmJ6vVh94w-hB_8tEEI0_g7ZqQok8g3IksMvuZYqPNoU4EDG-CL5PL038lvlvoADUHk_spQGPVNTGJAwgsSdklYSeAmmh65IFYAOG0/s320/cafleureboncoffretlartisan-parfumeur-timbuktiu-foudabsinthe-Coeur-de.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5691680448213014050" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 278px; " /><span><span >AFRICA, ABSINTHE & A MISNAMED TEA-PARTY. </span><b style="font-size: large; ">I</b></span>n time for the holidays <b>L' Artisan Parfumeur</b> presented two beautifully composed gift sets of 3 x 15 ml of some of their finest fragrances. The feminine box contains <span><span><i>Nu</i></span></span><span><span><i>it de Tubéreuse</i>, <i>Mûre et Musc</i> and <i>La Chasse aux Papillons</i> while the men'</span></span><span><span>s collection features </span></span><span><span><i>Fou d’Absinthe</i>, <i>Coeur de Vétiver Sacré</i> and <i>Timbuktu</i>.</span></span><div><div><br /></div><div><span><b><span >T</span></b></span>he latter gift set conveniently found it´s way to my Christmas tree and I have been enjoying it immensely the last couple of days. The selection is perfectly put together balancing both dry woods, fougere soapiness and oriental smoothness. A little something for many different moods.</div><div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOt5U_cMhE2aDjq6DvTT_adIsLPV87XIjGDBnx_Q3vqEV-nyuPasR3CzfttJzj8RxVrI0qzB5TFtr1mk3sB07XNP56w1wdCVZ2o-_hY9s0n5lBK6UXJUDFevnHB0jq0j9hYlEy59h_3Rup/s200/Timbuktu.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5691684714906754290" style="cursor: pointer; width: 111px; height: 200px; " /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzA-8bIgyqVYxNnKKSW8DfAVVTH51q9SKRaj8wsapbGl-sS1dcrMXJUs3EhFu8oEmy-R1cpxq2W2TKVOAKKEZn2WtKygGryPiV7it5x79X8NDwnYgQ1ri5ypfoSFSk-Jgazc__yEa0UhAr/s200/b71african.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5691687654526128946" style="cursor: pointer; width: 198px; height: 200px; " /></span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span><b><span><span >T</span></span>imbuktu (2004): </b>Perhaps perfumer <b>Bertrand Douchafours</b>' finest work. <i>Timbuktu</i>, inspired by ancient Mali perfume rituals, is a bone dry, woody blend with great depth and character. Spicy cardamom, austere papyrus and dense frankincense together make for a heady and natural accord. Ripe mango and fresh pink pepper beautifully balance the scorching impact of the arid spices. </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span>There is a subtle presence of vetiver throughout the evolution of the fragrance, no doubt enhancing the slightly earthy, bitter and smoky impression. </span>Myrrh, patchouli and benzoin eventually seal the deal with a smooth and lasting drydown. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span>Exotic, evocative and complex. </span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><div><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4FBn8F-vC7SSAO1vfXKlRlErVCGp7GQNuoyY763W12aJGEs73e4eKYHlnZhkY9pNAFaMXrEd2K2YDbAfg0G8zW1rUMvOhtYDp97q3v6KiZCqExH4cQP3qkOQWgAxy-ibNGai0Bh2uFw_v/s1600/3X1L4UKEIN4R021I3ZJED5AEOGZ0AZAXRV1OXAYZJ4KHTFIG.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4FBn8F-vC7SSAO1vfXKlRlErVCGp7GQNuoyY763W12aJGEs73e4eKYHlnZhkY9pNAFaMXrEd2K2YDbAfg0G8zW1rUMvOhtYDp97q3v6KiZCqExH4cQP3qkOQWgAxy-ibNGai0Bh2uFw_v/s200/3X1L4UKEIN4R021I3ZJED5AEOGZ0AZAXRV1OXAYZJ4KHTFIG.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5691687844176148482" style="cursor: pointer; width: 146px; height: 200px; " /></a><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzIpMfzH_aRqc5us2W1czu4VbAYq73fT4-XmmA6IdU48puIGaSxC2wR1hifCgQmRyovMwwRExZG5IjKIutEGtWmvbR612cD8wRYwf9-LPfSN22OOgbMNcZ8-Q8KcRusPuiR0ysQ65p8LtE/s200/Absinthe" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5691688078505307794" style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 200px; " /></span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><span><b><span><span >F</span></span>ou d'Absinthe (2006):</b> The incredibly talented <b>Olivia Giacobbetis</b>' contribution to the world of fougeres is actually somewhat of a contemporary bench mark of said genre. </span><span><i>Fou d'Absinthe</i> is not as much a tribute to the "green fairy" as it is a strongly coniferous pine fragrance. The opening is a sharp blast of astringent angelica - boozy and bold. Heart notes appear quickly though, developing the composition into more well behaved territory with creamy pepper, candied ginger and smooth patchouli. </span></span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><span>Clove and cistus create a very strong barbershop-vibe, something further accentuated by the pine needles and fir balsam in the basenotes. The references to classic fougeres like <b>Penhaligon´s</b> <i>English Fern</i>, <b>Dunhill </b><i>Edition </i>and <b>Brut </b>are evident, yet </span><span>Fou d'Absinthe has a distinct contemporary personality of it´s own - learning from history without living in it. </span></span>Eau de parfum strength that really does last the whole day, unfortunately a rare characteristic of this house.</div><div><span><span><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span>Soapy, elegant and masculine.</span></span></div></div></div></div><div><span><span><br /></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ch8EJzHhC3ZzztJNZZCy1G38yuhG1vW3JYUIGeNgFeXNTJVEQsQ39H9Mzide222n9Il3AUbmU3n47rxGbn437FR4hNT3UFWOIuebl67mF0xe4n8kwBJLwDcyeQChuhK6oUlJD-7tonZz/s1600/L_Artisan_C_oelig_ur_de_Vetiver_Sacr%25C3%25A9.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ch8EJzHhC3ZzztJNZZCy1G38yuhG1vW3JYUIGeNgFeXNTJVEQsQ39H9Mzide222n9Il3AUbmU3n47rxGbn437FR4hNT3UFWOIuebl67mF0xe4n8kwBJLwDcyeQChuhK6oUlJD-7tonZz/s320/L_Artisan_C_oelig_ur_de_Vetiver_Sacr%25C3%25A9.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5691705967354400770" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 211px; " /></a></div><div><span><b><span >C</span>oeur de Vétiver Sacré (2010):</b> </span><span><span><b>Karine Vinchon-Spehners</b>' terribly underrated </span></span><span style="color: rgb(65, 115, 148); line-height: 15px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><span></span></span><span>Coeur de Vétiver Sacré is most of all a victim of unfortunate naming. The vetiver in here is after all kept at a minimum - something that has caused disappointment within the community of afficionados of this pungent root. Quite a vocal crowd in the world of perfume lovers...</span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><span>Forget about the name though, this is a gem of a black tea fragrance with pleasant fruitiness and a gentle apricotish suede like character not unlike the one found in <b>Serge Lutens</b> fragrances like <i>Daim Blond </i>and <i>Santal Blanc</i>. Rose petals and fresh dates rest alongside this </span></span><span >cup of steaming ginger infused bergamot and osmanthus tea. </span></div><div><span><span><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span>Incense and birch tar add smokiness which makes the overall impression somewhat reminiscent of <b>Knize</b>´s rough <i>Ten</i> and <b>Santa Maria Novella</b>´s <i>Nostalgia</i> but with the leather and petrol accord way turned </span>down. Pepper and coriander contribute some sting while s<span>ubtle saffron, dry iris and clean musk anchor the fragrance smoothly. </span></span></div><span><span><div><span><span><br /></span></span></div>A modern, delicate and cozy oriental. </span></span><div><span></span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><b>Overall rating:</b> 9/10 for the gift collection as a whole.</span></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-43485136671717513292011-12-18T12:27:00.000-08:002011-12-18T13:16:59.700-08:00Speed Review: Penhaligon´s - Juniper Sling<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidlchZu045x4As5iN-ukD95eOfNcdBZ2kKKcyJLIenDezo7fHeQHQA1IATeUb3VP7H2w4MDpRkvHlJSBQYAMPqVrwZvCsgFZ4goCqh1cDo_Abn0SmVGiMwSDRz2rfVx6CWK_EKGWYMkbCP/s1600/lovely-package-penhaligons-juniper-sling.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 194px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidlchZu045x4As5iN-ukD95eOfNcdBZ2kKKcyJLIenDezo7fHeQHQA1IATeUb3VP7H2w4MDpRkvHlJSBQYAMPqVrwZvCsgFZ4goCqh1cDo_Abn0SmVGiMwSDRz2rfVx6CWK_EKGWYMkbCP/s200/lovely-package-penhaligons-juniper-sling.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5687576398904360018" /></a><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVF2_Uj5QbmfX6DQWQXv8w-E8LtYDHVJdM12plzSKP-0Mv6BFSd2hr1LHbxKYKINd_WpSXwmP7FvoXW0JFodyMtCn9W8aTH7djg4XfTIL1F53Y0nFc0zGv8MR7yxX68keoZ5eAgofth-3_/s200/1500-1253%257ECouple-Driving-Posters.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5687576837405212370" /><br /><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; "><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Year of launch:</b> 2011</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Gender classification:</b> Unisex (quite manly)</span></span></span></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Perfumer:</b> Olivier Cresp</div><span class="Apple-style-span"><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Availability: </b>In production</div><span><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Dominant Notes:</b> Cinnamon, Orange Brandy, Angelica, Juniper Berry, Cardamom, Black Pepper, Orris Wood and Vetiver</div></span></span><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGQHRQM30ELKFFNLe_0w1pk6tOLv4MUfWxbySkP5_-SZEktepzvv1pLGNKaRLZwg8Zqok0fTC7LrRzref0xo6rakVf4inrxCvrqh0v8LwnrqQC5udW-w_2w46AZw3Jcv_lCsdSG6PfSRAB/s200/rlauren-art-deco-cocktail-shaker.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5687577099870308514" style="text-align: left;float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 189px; height: 200px; " /><span class="Apple-style-span"><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Re</b></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>miniscent of:</b> Guerlain <i>Coriolan</i>, Bombay Sapphire<i> Infusion</i>, Hugh Parsons <i>Blue</i></span></div></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Packaging & Design: </b><span class="Apple-style-span">Elegant Art-Deco patterned mint green box, silver bow-tied clear glass flacon, chrome mirror label</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Longevity & Sillage:</b> Miniscule sillage, far below average longevity</span></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>5 adjectives:</b> Flat, dry, peppery, weak, clean</div><span><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Overall Rating:</b> 4/10</span></span></span><div><span><span></span></span><div style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "></div></div></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-46726563594088426802011-12-07T03:24:00.000-08:002011-12-07T05:44:25.197-08:00Decades of Decadence part II: Annick Goutal Ambre Fétiche<img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 160px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFwQoX1ZTRR9VW4c5pm1d8eMzeeT8bBPuNw3Rwjif2jNTUBdnLhuCJn6hOq1JyZVmBMi5YzqFBxAgKtvBbnCHv5Icro9lbl3o-Yy0UTLGUEEvNSNYuPypFl3K34mJ7165rtTxkncwDnyJz/s200/Goutal.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5683351911533472850" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_b3TZi3AkrtpE41opG3GV4m91Y9D4bEKGMN4Q566SOJ7UkG8mR5ReSTEpnV6ZlN_pu9wAj3aWaI5RMwVfGcDN5o7g7p0THSCw4SrusoTshobTI5yp3Lbs3RfjZtTeqJoV68uuvrSU17ca/s1600/BARBIER_PERSIA_ART_DECO_ART.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 135px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_b3TZi3AkrtpE41opG3GV4m91Y9D4bEKGMN4Q566SOJ7UkG8mR5ReSTEpnV6ZlN_pu9wAj3aWaI5RMwVfGcDN5o7g7p0THSCw4SrusoTshobTI5yp3Lbs3RfjZtTeqJoV68uuvrSU17ca/s200/BARBIER_PERSIA_ART_DECO_ART.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5683351983657278146" /></a><br /><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><span class="Apple-style-span"><b></b></span></span><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>I</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">n the four fragrances comprising the <i>Les Orientalistes</i>-series the House of <b>Annick Goutal</b> takes a welcome departure to the darker and more mysterious sides of perfumery. </span></span></span><div><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span">I have a great deal of respect for the very natural, honest style of this house - with citrus benchmarks like E<i>au d´Hadrien</i>, the coarse beauty of <i>Sables</i> and <i>Duel </i>and the true to life dewey freshness of <i>Ninfeo Mio</i>. Yet most of the Goutal back catalogue lacks a certain excitement - more competent, organic little poems than complex epic novels. </span></span></span><div><span><span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>T</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">his started changing already with the excellent spicy <i>Mandragore </i>and the more intense version <i>Mandragore Pourpre</i> but is even more evident in <i>Ambre Fétiche</i> and the other three orientals <i>Myrrhe Ardente</i>,<i> Encens Flamboyant </i>and <i>Musc Nomade</i>. Especially Ambre Fétiche st</span></span></span>ands out as very "non-Goutalesque" with it´s smoldering spices, opulent richness and heavy duty sillage. </div><div><span><span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>T</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">he initial blast is brutal - bitter, medicinal and almost overpowering. But this fierce top swiftly gives way to a creamy and dense amber with a strong and syrupy vanilla presence. Thus far many ambers are similar, especially <b>L´Artisan Parfumeur</b>´s <i>Ambre Extréme </i>comes to mind. But it is what follows that separates Ambre Fétiche from many of it´s niche counterparts. </span></span></span></div><div><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFTOK2nE-5L-B4OJnEt2zxrYa0lrapAHqsz_bVCGkqqWGxYIbVTJbPWN-cU7CipUmRmqpdkYGeBKZ6H7TA_LXnJzVDvwtQ-jSOJ-mdJGNlElFlGeIq6lofTBSrNWiB2HMS05m06xKgxF2/s200/istanbul3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5683374015282977794" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px; " /><b><span class="Apple-style-span"></span></b></span></span></span><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>A</b></span> beautiful smoke and leather accord, probably achieved with labdanum and birch tar, lifts the whole composition to a whole new level successfully balancing out the intense sweetness. This smoke accord also has a salty steamlike quality much like the one found in <b>Penhaligon´s </b><i>Sartorial</i>.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; "></span></div><div><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">T</span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span">he overall impression is deep, dark, voluptous, bohemian and timeless. Both sillage and longevity are amazing. This stays on your skin forever. </span></span></span></div><div><span><span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>A</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">part from being an excellent fragrance, Ambre Fétiche - as well as the others in Les Orientalistes - are a great work of artistic integrity and cohesion. In an age where fragrance brands compete fiercely with pretentious copy and increasingly ridiculous concepts - this line of fragrances does exactly what it´s supposed to - evoke visions of an ancient, lavish middle east with steamy hammams, luxurious spices and precious incense.</span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>I</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">n Ambre Fétiche <b>Isabelle Doyen </b>and <b>Camille Goutal </b>have not only created one of the great modern ambers, they have also successfully widened the brilliance of this esteemed perfume house.</span></span></span><div><div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-family: georgia; "><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-family: georgia; "><span class="Apple-style-span">Overall Rating: 9/10</span></b></div></div></div></div></div></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-39900706723098217422011-12-01T13:02:00.001-08:002011-12-01T13:38:53.624-08:00L'Artisan Parfumeur - Batucada<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Y57aetoinu3TqTS6MOilR7u3ietctb1dXi_PCnAAnuKtkQF95hPXukOyqWQ2F5r2Xxb6ZYUdASj7qrccGd-ij5Cz27G7NL73IBPqXkRWsmk2MQ-GpdmBIgkIlVc3cNm0TfioecWsj2bP/s1600/Batucada.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 228px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Y57aetoinu3TqTS6MOilR7u3ietctb1dXi_PCnAAnuKtkQF95hPXukOyqWQ2F5r2Xxb6ZYUdASj7qrccGd-ij5Cz27G7NL73IBPqXkRWsmk2MQ-GpdmBIgkIlVc3cNm0TfioecWsj2bP/s320/Batucada.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5681268429662792354" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" >BRAZILIAN (B)LOWOUT. <b>L'Artisan Parfumeur</b>´s recent movement towards more accessible mainstream compositions definitely continues with this new homage to Brazil and it´s vibrant culture. </span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Batucada</i>, apparently inspired by a fast paced </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "></span><span><span>substyle of samba, is a simple but very enjoyable fizzy fresh blend. <span class="Apple-style-span">Notes of </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span">lemon and coconut together with a caipirinha accord constructed with </span><span class="Apple-style-span">mint,</span><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span">lime and syrupy sugar cane play the main roles together. Some pyramids also mention </span><span class="Apple-style-span">tiare, ylang ylang, amber, benzoin, sandalwood, vetiver and vanilla. But honestly the firstly mentioned notes along with a little too much calone and some light skin musk is what I mostly pick up. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span class="Apple-style-span">No doubt a pleasant and cheerful choice for hot summer days, but ultimately I expect more from a house that has given us such classics as <b>Dzing!</b>, <b>Timbuktu</b> and <b>Bois Farine</b>. </span><span class="Apple-style-span">Fun but fleeting. </span></span></div><div><div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><strong style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-family: georgia; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><span class="Apple-style-span" ></span></strong><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span" ><b>Year of Launch: </b>2011<br /><b>Gender Classification:</b> Unisex<br /><b>Reminiscent of:</b> Aramis Bermuda Tonic, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Bahiana<br /><b>Longevity & Sillage: </b>Moderate projection, low staying power<br /><b>Overall Rating: </b>6/1o</span><br /></span></span></div></div></div></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-66136461437785025472011-11-27T07:50:00.000-08:002011-11-27T08:17:10.566-08:00Speed Review: Hermès - Santal Massoia<img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 219px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTz9DSbDPM9jZzQKiyKWsNEbEmMwu7WRJ6rgKQTukSGUXpbogxh-ztg_EGo_ZgL9cTktGLqatbwFaoF82zbBXIlbcg_Vu9Ga1Vp-nf4y3-oGKhidhv6JeYhfrIX2PIkvIDomVmL0dQP0Oi/s320/santal-massoia-hermessence-hermes_high.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679704981670342274" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTz9DSbDPM9jZzQKiyKWsNEbEmMwu7WRJ6rgKQTukSGUXpbogxh-ztg_EGo_ZgL9cTktGLqatbwFaoF82zbBXIlbcg_Vu9Ga1Vp-nf4y3-oGKhidhv6JeYhfrIX2PIkvIDomVmL0dQP0Oi/s1600/santal-massoia-hermessence-hermes_high.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><strong style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "></strong></a><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span" ><b>Year of launch:</b> 2011</span></span></span><div><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span" ><b>Gender classification:</b> Unisex </span></span></span></div><div><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span" >(leaning slightly to the feminine side)<br /><b>Perfumer: </b>Jean-Claude Ellena<br /><b>Availability:</b> In production<br /><b>Dominant Notes:</b> Sandalwood, massoia bark, coconut<br /><b>Reminiscent of:</b> Eau de Cartier, L'Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine<br /><b>Longevity & Sillage: </b>Light projection, below average longevity</span></span></span></div><div><span><span><span class="Apple-style-span" ><b>Packaging & Design: </b>Standard Hermès Hermessence flacon with an elegant light brown brushed suede cap<br /><b>5 adjectives: </b>Milky, sweet, airy, floral, woody<br /><b>Overall Rating: </b>6,5/10</span></span></span><div><span style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: georgia; "></span></div></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-48249989130608335752011-10-30T12:30:00.000-07:002011-10-30T13:57:00.910-07:00Marc Jacobs - Bang Bang<strong></strong><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL3tX4nME3MDp7yFpUqv14Ou7W0zuvic7bWimvrEfFxOhLdF6z6Tm5IRuKENECu90aBkF8KUaKjCfmjJF4yZ1kN9LbXFFTB1OkCPNwJQCSaj_V8FvrFP1kVJWuAG_46AIgmgFjUsUdOBqq/s1600/marc_jacobs_bang_bang-copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669370664999015778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 239px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL3tX4nME3MDp7yFpUqv14Ou7W0zuvic7bWimvrEfFxOhLdF6z6Tm5IRuKENECu90aBkF8KUaKjCfmjJF4yZ1kN9LbXFFTB1OkCPNwJQCSaj_V8FvrFP1kVJWuAG_46AIgmgFjUsUdOBqq/s320/marc_jacobs_bang_bang-copy.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:georgia;">BANG FOR THE BUCK. </span><span style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="font-size:130%;">A</span>part from the somewhat silly and uninspired name, <em>Bang Bang</em> by <strong>Marc Jacobs</strong> is actually a very competent flanker to last years successful original.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">J</span>ust like <em>Bang</em>, the dry, peppery woody base remains but has now been updated with a modern minty top and some opening creamy citrus notes. This adds some welcome herbal plumpness and a zesty sting to the rough, smoky vetiver heart. Deep notes of sage and patchouli mellow the overall impression for a significantly smoother ride compared to the original.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">P</span>art of the charm of the original was it´s coarse and minimalist approach, which - at the same -time easily turns into monotony and ultimately boredom. Not so with this update. Overall a more complete and wearable fun fragrance. Uplifting, modern and masculine.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">A</span>dditional official notes include lemon, fennel, cardamom, sandalwood and cashmere musks.<br /><br /><strong>Year of Launch:</strong> 2011<br /><strong>Gender Classification:</strong> Masculine<br /><strong>Reminiscent of:</strong> Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Geranium pour Monsieur, Hermès Poivre Samarcande, Armani Sport Code<br /><strong>Longevity & Sillage:</strong> Moderate projection, very good staying power<br /><strong>Overall Rating:</strong> 7/1o</span>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-40979419847578773282011-10-09T03:00:00.000-07:002011-10-09T03:09:00.419-07:00GUIDE - Fragrances for Fall/www.manolo.se<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9TSOu2ylCuXa6W5R34XopRaN9A0UnKEBFb5v_Yv3x53paKNLzdfabwg3iXl-em5nwOvA_frl8XOEJl4gjhQsYixcEbcfceTYzJFBmapryp9G2t5F-0spKNXN42bS6blM4IIyJGYnFveAg/s1600/Manolo.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 314px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9TSOu2ylCuXa6W5R34XopRaN9A0UnKEBFb5v_Yv3x53paKNLzdfabwg3iXl-em5nwOvA_frl8XOEJl4gjhQsYixcEbcfceTYzJFBmapryp9G2t5F-0spKNXN42bS6blM4IIyJGYnFveAg/s320/Manolo.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5661430485742147794" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>S</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span">weden´s</span><span class="Apple-style-span"> premiere Men´s Style Blog, www.manolo.se, recently published my guide on fragrances especially suited for autumn. Article in Swedish here: </span><a href="http://www.manolo.se/artiklar/artikel/20110808/varma-hostdofter">http://www.manolo.se/artiklar/artikel/20110808/varma-hostdofter</a>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-89686326159884536582011-10-01T09:45:00.000-07:002011-10-01T10:07:18.641-07:00Speed Review: Creed - Aventus<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD_3I-pkiBt3XW_vMxUrQtXlZVqOyBxAyb646N1rfFZX3VG7QCpOXGvIOfkN7QCx7cNNEZ_jf0o7CszYNDIhMuZi8cN7a9SqiB4dweA4RgqGPX-aYP9et1dfO8IpmU05Sqp4tCYg9Pt-09/s1600/Aventus.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5658567304157754178" style="WIDTH: 193px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD_3I-pkiBt3XW_vMxUrQtXlZVqOyBxAyb646N1rfFZX3VG7QCpOXGvIOfkN7QCx7cNNEZ_jf0o7CszYNDIhMuZi8cN7a9SqiB4dweA4RgqGPX-aYP9et1dfO8IpmU05Sqp4tCYg9Pt-09/s200/Aventus.jpg" border="0" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRGWZSaPA4FIbH3AEOS5PgO8dOt70-Qsk77JfZIaYZvdfguSi2ash4Q7Q8duQGi_4sisYOf7LGaTTWcXj8IcFUBMn9NPpn7-kDrvZzgjSZZIKgD7NEOkOIOa2za85YSdkxADP0Z1fNQKU/s1600/smoke1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5658567359866794082" style="WIDTH: 151px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRGWZSaPA4FIbH3AEOS5PgO8dOt70-Qsk77JfZIaYZvdfguSi2ash4Q7Q8duQGi_4sisYOf7LGaTTWcXj8IcFUBMn9NPpn7-kDrvZzgjSZZIKgD7NEOkOIOa2za85YSdkxADP0Z1fNQKU/s200/smoke1.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>Year of launch:</strong> 2010 </span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>Gender classification: </strong>Masculine</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>Perfumer:</strong> Olivier & Erwin Creed</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>Availability:</strong> In production </span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>Dominant Notes:</strong> Blackcurrant, bergamot, apple, pineapple, patchouli, oak moss, musk, ambergris and vanilla.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>Reminiscent of:</strong> Ralph Lauren Romance Silver, Armani Attitude, Paco Rabanne Black XS for Him</span><br /><strong>Longevity & Sillage: </strong>Moderate to good projection, excellent staying power<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>Packaging & Design:</strong> Standard Creed flacon with added black leather wrap and silver plaquet </span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>5 adjectives:</strong> Fruity, smoky, crisp, mossy, elegant</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>Overall Rating:</strong> 8/10</span>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-25193261363180489932011-09-27T10:46:00.000-07:002011-09-27T13:15:26.257-07:00DSQUARED2 - Potion<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVggm2VBrsxM1tSLklsX3YSjVX4Q1SqpAhxqgt3ivxjlKoPsaixKPangkYZjug4k14n6bTaIjgJJ6bLVuPrOGDAUY7VagoDvKLetRameSQ1_wKIBXYJf0Hdu-n5KMZP0jxV8pBqf5xS9ZD/s1600/DSquared-Potion-Parfum.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5657132450173629826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 279px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVggm2VBrsxM1tSLklsX3YSjVX4Q1SqpAhxqgt3ivxjlKoPsaixKPangkYZjug4k14n6bTaIjgJJ6bLVuPrOGDAUY7VagoDvKLetRameSQ1_wKIBXYJf0Hdu-n5KMZP0jxV8pBqf5xS9ZD/s320/DSquared-Potion-Parfum.jpg" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-family:georgia;">A LIGHTER SHADE OF PALE. <strong>DSQUARED2</strong>: s first foray into masculine perfumery, <em>He Wood</em> (2007), was a competent albeit simple blend of violets and vetiver. Uncomplicated, yet instantly recognizable and pleasant. Since then a few flankers have appeared, all of them with some merit of their own. All in all a good olfactory resume so far for the extravagant <em>Caten</em>-twins <em>Dean</em> and <em>Dan</em>. </span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><strong><br /></strong></span><span style="font-size:130%;">T</span><span class="Apple-style-span">herefore I was quite excited to try out their latest launch - </span><em style="FONT-FAMILY: georgia">Potion</em><span class="Apple-style-span">. Additionally, the nose is the esteemed </span><em style="FONT-FAMILY: georgia">Annick Ménardo</em><span class="Apple-style-span">, creator of previous brilliance like </span><strong style="FONT-FAMILY: georgia">Bulgari</strong> <em style="FONT-FAMILY: georgia">Black</em><span class="Apple-style-span">, </span><strong style="FONT-FAMILY: georgia">YSL</strong> <em style="FONT-FAMILY: georgia">Body Kouros</em><span class="Apple-style-span"> and </span><strong style="FONT-FAMILY: georgia">Dior</strong><span class="Apple-style-span">’s </span><em style="FONT-FAMILY: georgia">Bois D'Argent</em><span class="Apple-style-span">.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><strong><br /></strong></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><strong><br /></strong></span><span style="font-size:130%;">A</span><span class="Apple-style-span">nd Potion does deliver. But, unfortunately far too weakly. The longevity and sillage of this is incredibly low – more like a fragrant whisper than the eau de parfum strength signalled on the great looking apothecary style flacon… Three spritzes faded into oblivion within an hour on my skin. This really is a pity on this woodsy, spicy and innovative concoction.</span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">D</span></strong>uring it's brief presence, Potion delivers a smooth, minty almost absinthe-tinged ride. The opening is boldly boozy, herbal and slightly bitter but rapidly mellows down to gentle spices and dry woods. The main accord is austere and strict , creating an almost pale/white impression where very classic ingredients come together in a contemporary manner - much like Comme des Garcons' early stuff.</span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">O</span></strong>fficial notes include red mint leaves, angelica, thyme, rose petals, black peppercorns, gentian, cinnamon, cashmere wood, patchouli, amber and musk. A note missing from the official list is nutmeg, which I pick up strongly - especially on the dry down. Hints of smoky incense, dry cedar and soft amber purr together before Potion fades out completely.</span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">O</span></strong>verall Potion is a well crafted, fairly original blend obviously made from high quality ingredients. This clearly stands out from the majority of new designer releases and reinforces the obviously high ambitions of this particular house regarding fragrances. Creative and extremely wearable.</span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtTNg8FQLbToOzhyphenhyphengW1cjpaNY05L9oHHt_y7soWDXZY0HCnaiCzhcz5Cu9v1mR148I3dIliNGWJOfqKV1dHy-KGKqhIVBVHEcKzNwRligheKpfOdur18iWVUP-aYvKCB4ZCz2DjwFPXf0r/s1600/DSquared-Potion-Oil.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5657133739502997442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 153px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtTNg8FQLbToOzhyphenhyphengW1cjpaNY05L9oHHt_y7soWDXZY0HCnaiCzhcz5Cu9v1mR148I3dIliNGWJOfqKV1dHy-KGKqhIVBVHEcKzNwRligheKpfOdur18iWVUP-aYvKCB4ZCz2DjwFPXf0r/s200/DSquared-Potion-Oil.jpg" border="0" /></a>U</span></strong>ltimately, and unfortunately so, <span style="font-family:georgia;">the insanely </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">low staying power </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">and projection significantly </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">lowers </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">the overall experience. Hopefully </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">DSQUARED2 </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">puts out an “extreme” </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">version or something in </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">that direction </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">soon. Apparently the wide range of </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">ancillary products features a perfume </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">oil version </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">that might be worth looking </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">up in hopes of increased output.</span></span><br /><br /><strong>Year of Launch:</strong> 2011<br /><strong>Gender Classification:</strong> Masculine<br /><strong>Reminiscent of:</strong> Gucci Pour Homme, L’Artisan Parfumeur Fou d’Absinthe, Cacharel Pour Homme, Hermès Eau de Gentian Blanche, Comme des Garcons White<br /><strong>Longevity & Sillage:</strong> Both unfortunately extremely low<br /><strong>Overall Rating: </strong>6/1o </div></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-43821600686946439062011-09-20T02:56:00.000-07:002011-09-20T03:37:39.155-07:00The Citrus Anatomy part V - Guerlain Homme L´Eau<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7UzJ49f7J09YbShkZHkb02w4pWS-WbPRwvNy7zudYPryn4YGF7wX3G71aAwrrWUWxO1HtRDiQEi8zHBPK4Ef0pcf3Evhn3X7yMpP7lq6rnpfto8hM2vyvSJrAqKlpxG8_nqquHT239MA6/s1600/Guerlain-Homme-Leau_630.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5654385961481551106" style="WIDTH: 182px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7UzJ49f7J09YbShkZHkb02w4pWS-WbPRwvNy7zudYPryn4YGF7wX3G71aAwrrWUWxO1HtRDiQEi8zHBPK4Ef0pcf3Evhn3X7yMpP7lq6rnpfto8hM2vyvSJrAqKlpxG8_nqquHT239MA6/s200/Guerlain-Homme-Leau_630.jpg" border="0" /></a> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5654386071962024130" style="WIDTH: 183px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVRy6HdXJFAj-ObYvub7AZoLcFU9pm2WOzwt-M7Bkbfqe8yffVU5M6drkSbCEPjV1VinmuS9EvfoFbtzyDqh62Ft6erL-zkWbaX3Ys39VIhGTpGoyDCouYL-cfS3VGBTavxv2mMvVQuZeR/s200/the-acid11.jpg" border="0" /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:georgia;"><span><span style="font-size:130%;">T</span>he latest instalment in <strong>Guerlain</strong>´s <em>Homme</em>-series is actually the by far most accomplished yet. Better and more balanced than both the original and intense versions, <em>L´Eau</em> is highly wearable for summer and crisp fall days. It retains the rum/mojito accord from the original and has a cool, bracing mint note. The harsh and synthetic wood accord from previous versions has been replaced by classic eau de cologne notes with zesty citrus, pungent herbs and icy geranium.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">A</span>dditional notes include lime, bergamot, grapefruit, cedar and vetiver.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">F</span>or me this is a perfect update of <strong>Hermès</strong> <em>Eau de orange verte concentrée</em>. Same elegant classic style but with better longevity and some added complexity. The frosted glass flacon looks good and represents the content very well. Good projection and excellent staying power. Overall a winner and perhaps more importantly - finally a modern classic for Guerlain´s in house perfumer <strong>Thierry Wasser</strong>.<br /></span></span></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:georgia;"><span></span></span></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:georgia;"><span><strong>Overall rating:</strong> 8/10</span></span></span>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-60627921383209873182011-08-31T10:43:00.000-07:002011-08-31T11:03:24.769-07:00Speed Review: Tom Ford - Azure Lime<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRP7B9HWH8wof9vsdnAQPTLcnxRZMALX8n20z1EeLI309gg8hzZQUGJ9NcHE6csnpkOy1hIAHt9Ms54WZqpPh-GOgjqn6yg25hU0uBQCwWBBaSRrMoloNWpZtoQkEwo8-t89HY7MTadzzg/s1600/Private+Blend+Azure+Lime+2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 264px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRP7B9HWH8wof9vsdnAQPTLcnxRZMALX8n20z1EeLI309gg8hzZQUGJ9NcHE6csnpkOy1hIAHt9Ms54WZqpPh-GOgjqn6yg25hU0uBQCwWBBaSRrMoloNWpZtoQkEwo8-t89HY7MTadzzg/s320/Private+Blend+Azure+Lime+2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5647077518500865282" /></a><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-size: 13px; "><strong style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; line-height: 20px; ">Year of launch:</strong><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"> 2010 </span></span>
<br /><strong style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; line-height: 20px; ">Gender classification:</strong><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"> Unisex</span></span>
<br /><strong style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; line-height: 20px; ">Perfumer: </strong><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;">Unknown</span></span><strong style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; line-height: 20px; ">
<br />Availability:</strong><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"> In production </span></span>
<br /><strong style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; line-height: 20px; ">Dominant Notes:</strong><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"> Lime, Neroli, Juniper, Valencia Orange, Basil, Mint, Musk, something aquatic (calone?)</span></span>
<br /><strong style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; line-height: 20px; ">Reminiscent of:</strong><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"> Christian Dior Eau Sauvage, Hermès Eau d´Orange Concentree</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 20px; font-size: 13px; font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; color: rgb(43, 30, 21); "><span>
<br /><strong>Longevity & Sillage:</strong> Moderate on both accounts
<br /><strong>Packaging & Design:</strong> Standard Tom Ford rectangular dark brown glass flacon
<br /><strong>5 adjectives:</strong> Vivid, sparkling, zesty, aquatic, herbal
<br /><strong>Overall Rating:</strong> 6/10</span> </span></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-17614719258741607512011-08-17T02:23:00.001-07:002011-08-17T12:37:56.083-07:00Hermès-Hermessence<div align="center"><span style="font-size:130%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Flk3AVfKIO3KpJ0ytwWJ9K9s2FpywDxjJI-50TcpSeZiFbm6H3YXQJwKU01OQKuGKreWQvt7yQkEdPSTuuLprxlr0pvddN5yeWclFD1G27NAUBd6y3kh1x9IpXV6IhSsGXJO1syVZlT8/s1600/logo_hermes-5-217f5.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641753773719095538" style="WIDTH: 180px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 181px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Flk3AVfKIO3KpJ0ytwWJ9K9s2FpywDxjJI-50TcpSeZiFbm6H3YXQJwKU01OQKuGKreWQvt7yQkEdPSTuuLprxlr0pvddN5yeWclFD1G27NAUBd6y3kh1x9IpXV6IhSsGXJO1syVZlT8/s400/logo_hermes-5-217f5.jpg" border="0" /></a></span></div>A(I)RISTOCRACY. French masters of equestrian elegance - <strong>Hermès</strong> - are described as one of the last outposts of true luxury in <em>Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster</em> by journalist <strong>Dana Thomas</strong> (2007). I agree with Ms. Thomas’ assessment – their sense of quality and craft are certainly reflected in the selection of fragrances on offer.
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<br />In the <strong>Hermessence</strong>-line in house perfumer <strong>Jean-Claude Ellena</strong> explores different high quality raw materials in “olfactory poems”. This concept of simple, yet personal and original perfume goes especially well with Mr. Ellena’s trade mark airy “legere” style.
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<br />My encounters with this range follow below – beginning with my favorite ones (and continuing in descending order).
<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641759509839433954" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 268px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 212px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1vXMc36DDSF0QEjYxxnnynLVHZgqpeImHLrVEHgD_4646rBd1SeJm1Lp74ay3TM3-_48WhyUIS3JHvpRnhaXyr_HSDHdtZvCf6R_B3FiNKb_LyinkZkP6H1SpaiC9XEdSvlPGlZbWe1yq/s320/vetiver.jpg" border="0" />
<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsp9qFjAdv7QgXdzHyzA8X0g9ooG5Ud7RQt9a7VdEUuTiprFy7107A-8g_GNNZF2UST0U2OFduxREiuepAEoMWgD0GeBLHqWof0V9cHifQGZ4Y1wfgXU2A78ZtL-601KUueCZq6YBLPtnY/s1600/1%20The%20flannel%20suit.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641849747145285874" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 128px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 183px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsp9qFjAdv7QgXdzHyzA8X0g9ooG5Ud7RQt9a7VdEUuTiprFy7107A-8g_GNNZF2UST0U2OFduxREiuepAEoMWgD0GeBLHqWof0V9cHifQGZ4Y1wfgXU2A78ZtL-601KUueCZq6YBLPtnY/s200/1%252520The%252520flannel%252520suit.jpg" border="0" /></a><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">V</span>et</strong><strong>ivér Tonka:</strong> Much like <strong>L´Occitanes’</strong> <em>Vetyver </em>this is not a vetiver for the hardcore aficionados of the pungent grass/root. Rather Vetivér Tonka takes a mild and tempered approach to vetiver with soft complementing notes. A slight smokiness does however remain, mingling beautifully with sweet caramelized hazelnuts and mellow tobacco. Official notes include Neroli, Bergamot, Vetiver, Roasted Hazelnuts, Dried Fruit, Cereals and Tonka Bean – but the blend is seamless and mostly radiates of a peppery, clean masculinity.
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<br />Vetivér Tonka is an incredibly elegant fragrance. Discreet, yet as sharp as a meticulously tailored grey flannel suit. There are similarities to some of Ellenas’ other work, especially T<em>erre d’ Hermès</em>, but I strongly prefer the crisp and straight forward composition of VT. Liquid sophistication.
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<br /><strong><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK2A2Ex_7Na2te2Ps5UtgsgULwDWWGBOJSZ_buUIWQ98ArWMEnrWIzHeyvSCSD_ZKHH1kKEacmbCCZweNVxhWsq-25xPHuD53fUeXT5bSSYE_-TlVNVW8NeWrBf7XrzpTo4w8TTVqu-73p/s1600/ambre.jpg"><span style="font-size:130%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641850566684742850" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 95px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 173px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK2A2Ex_7Na2te2Ps5UtgsgULwDWWGBOJSZ_buUIWQ98ArWMEnrWIzHeyvSCSD_ZKHH1kKEacmbCCZweNVxhWsq-25xPHuD53fUeXT5bSSYE_-TlVNVW8NeWrBf7XrzpTo4w8TTVqu-73p/s200/ambre.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:130%;">A</span>mbre Narguilé:</strong> This is gourmand done right. Ambre Narguilé perfectly balances “edible” notes with thought and moderation. The end result is best described as a classy and highly wearable cinnamon apple pie. <em>Boss Bottled </em>from <strong>Hugo Boss</strong> is a bit in this direction but ultimately ventures into synthetic mess. AN instead excels in its ambition of transparent contemporary oriental with sweet honey, creamy vanilla and smoky dried fruits.
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<br />Official notes include benzoin, labdanum, musk, vanilla, caramel, honey, sugared tonka bean, grilled sesame seeds, cinnamon, rum, coumarine and white orchids. Rich, dense and opulent – but never too much. Amazing longevity and decent sillage on this one.
<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy0R5cVxSEYzL0FbW0ktH5MctUxesV_YkEC4I91UN_B8nIMQHQg1XS1UccJ7WZB3fdrw5YIYG0LXc-kDd1PxpJSY9-uuK-SlWzOHaBLCZxefa0N40KBny_Xwi_9bbM_vIrznh-VX0HAyhk/s1600/hermessence-poivre-samarcande.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641853522981575794" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 148px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 194px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy0R5cVxSEYzL0FbW0ktH5MctUxesV_YkEC4I91UN_B8nIMQHQg1XS1UccJ7WZB3fdrw5YIYG0LXc-kDd1PxpJSY9-uuK-SlWzOHaBLCZxefa0N40KBny_Xwi_9bbM_vIrznh-VX0HAyhk/s200/hermessence-poivre-samarcande.jpg" border="0" /></a>
<br /><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">P</span>oivre Samarcande:</strong> In some ways Poivre Samarcande feels like a tribute to classic <em>Eau d'Hermès</em>. They definitely share the same “dirty” yet refined vibe – most certainly thanks to cumin. At the same time PS is quite modern and not unlike some othercontemporary stuff out there - I suspect this is due to some usage of Iso-E Super.
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<br />For instance Poivre Samarcande is similar, to <em>Bang</em> by <strong>Marc Jacobs</strong>. Similar but vastly superior. I just love the dry, crackling black pepper and salty leather notes in this. Official notes include black pepper, Chili pepper, Oak, Cedar, Musk and Chinese Moss. Spicy, warm and slightly animalic.
<br /><p align="center"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641907248819641938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 309px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 206px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishUTY5ctO_iu6sHjECH2EaAACaZSMlTe2hSlNdapZ6g29eYglAOm96htIbsnNXKJUFkQStgG5LbOH7CEd07fCqoaC5hnXcCf2Iul1PbiHO6p2SDarOIw9bsHzZQx0EJBIRWM-n8wHBvvK/s320/black-pepper-text449.jpg" border="0" /></p>
<br /><p align="left"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj21f5_BvbodSvuuAlmjvCPO57Xt6WCZ5U2gqjJKLjF5KAsXCmQT9N00wi68vfcm8uYuWlPmRJ23shZw11Z1qc_0-aLgAV5vQUdB2BrJx4bhPzT6wRGTwWHg8B2xEmtosVdS9adJOYfl8Co/s1600/ikebana.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641902254119543426" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 186px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 166px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj21f5_BvbodSvuuAlmjvCPO57Xt6WCZ5U2gqjJKLjF5KAsXCmQT9N00wi68vfcm8uYuWlPmRJ23shZw11Z1qc_0-aLgAV5vQUdB2BrJx4bhPzT6wRGTwWHg8B2xEmtosVdS9adJOYfl8Co/s200/ikebana.jpg" border="0" /></a>R</span>ose Ikebana:</strong> A stunningly bright take on rose. Ellena’s trade mark is instantly recognizable in Rose Ikebana that shares a strong resemblance with <em>Eau de Pamplemousse Rose</em> – especially with a sparkling grapefruit note – but also some similarities to the lovely tartness found in the <em>Jardin</em>-series. A natural, tangy rhubarb adds instant freshness to the dewey and gentle rose petals. The overall feeling is of a moist beautiful garden with plump fruit and lush greenery. Delicate, sheer and extremely wearable for men and women alike. Impossible to dislike. According to others longevity on my skin is far better than I perceived myself. Official notes include rose petals, peony, magnolia, pink peppercorns, grapefruit zest, green rhubarb, vanilla, honey, and black tea.</p>
<br /><p align="left"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">P</span></strong><strong>aprika Brasil: </strong>Beautiful and original, Paprika Brasil is by far the most feminine in the range to my nose. Here dry, powdery and floral iris is paired with austere cedar wood. The result is a chillingly chic blend that I picture to be the perfect choice for formal galas or dinners. For women that is. PB is just too much femme fatale for me –its aroma immediately conjures up images of lipstick and expensive red stilettos in my mind. Official notes include pimento, clove and paprika Iris and green leaves Reseda, ember wood and “woody notes”.</p>
<br /><p align="left"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641897305036063538" style="WIDTH: 171px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 179px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha0OOHl0xeb8XVJlTmbAGm9Qc1hKZ2iKp4x7pHHsn3hd4G6L9mMi5MLD_-jqPnzPKyFArvWmLoo5piGozk8v9OFuKFEx5c6enSsZpJY4ozgTqIcmAn0ViSpx5vKPSEP_xHqEjd-Ro5sAD0/s200/stillett.jpg" border="0" /> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641897706416431554" style="WIDTH: 163px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 190px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCWZ1CkS4CPgkq6vo2dXco-HlVzK9iXzAN9rS8giJO2IAp2N-PLWEu3XnA6ghytJheZesKfqUbCRJcNNp-hSaDqy6y7jAzASxwU1T1EYPlAbzzWh0K4N8SqxWYaBko_9kOaiXW5WZ-0MsY/s200/hermes_paprika_brasil_.jpg" border="0" /></p>
<br /><p align="left"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">B</span>rin de réglisse:</strong> In many ways a departure from the rest of the series. Brin de réglisse is <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkSNkEk76i2jBZmyCU6qqUB1oQS3bS2mxJcf7Vs9FXSm_Pjd_AIFgLNeQr-x_SEOF8UyEPMkzA7KyG_AsP-EBd3LVLmX7tbEoHnu_zV31L7-c6PP8NNYhfJx7NjRkcvvo58HRtA9iOt9RT/s1600/hermes-brin-reglisse-g.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641903286924855474" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 141px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkSNkEk76i2jBZmyCU6qqUB1oQS3bS2mxJcf7Vs9FXSm_Pjd_AIFgLNeQr-x_SEOF8UyEPMkzA7KyG_AsP-EBd3LVLmX7tbEoHnu_zV31L7-c6PP8NNYhfJx7NjRkcvvo58HRtA9iOt9RT/s200/hermes-brin-reglisse-g.jpg" border="0" /></a>more direct and brutal than it’s siblings. The opening immediately has intense licorice and pungent lavender battling it out before settling into a mellow, creamy base of said notes. Reminds me of a slightly less complex but deeper version of <strong>Piguet</strong>´s <em>Cravache</em>. Fun but unfortunately very fleeting. Personally I think <em>Eau de réglisse</em> by <strong>Caron</strong> does this concept more effectively, with better staying power and way cheaper. Official notes include lavender, licorice, orange blossom, hay, incense, vanilla and leather. </p>
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<br /><p align="left"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE24zEJ2HIqx6dlx0vrdE1ndeIhYIt9Uax_zQAyLOPJj0nWOLwKF68Kqkuw-7RSqkuxp-QLt3smtOe-Rg2oJHnHAInKsulcdEqPnLWRLH8sQZXZQqa3A3Re34g4eHexXEXgUtoA13ZoUOi/s1600/iris-ukiyo-e-print.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641903796456825570" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 136px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE24zEJ2HIqx6dlx0vrdE1ndeIhYIt9Uax_zQAyLOPJj0nWOLwKF68Kqkuw-7RSqkuxp-QLt3smtOe-Rg2oJHnHAInKsulcdEqPnLWRLH8sQZXZQqa3A3Re34g4eHexXEXgUtoA13ZoUOi/s200/iris-ukiyo-e-print.jpg" border="0" /></a>I</span>ris Ukioyé:</strong> Clean and pleasant iris fragrance. Somewhat more contemporary ambiance compared to <em>Olivia Giacobetti’s</em> masterpiece <strong>Hiris</strong> from 1999. Competent but ultimately unexciting compared to others in the range.
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<br /><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">V</span>anille Galante:</strong> For a lack of better words I would describe this as an “organic” vanilla. Very far from the synthetic vanilla accords that are so commonplace in perfumery of today. Vanille Galant has a fleshy substance to it with some indolic notes. Very vivid and not sweet at all. Think of bitter and smoky vanilla pods together with blossoming orchids and pungent jasmine - original and cool. Floral, sharp and quite feminine.
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<br /><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXEU2FBHzWqACQlTIDQjhWjv6p4eEcjqsXWfRUSj5rnnlOoBC4O2XWwmxrGzXNmKo4YhKxwfT0f8jIkvsUyNbEQvf93ju9SKs7CIhQ5Ylq3sqGEm1O6GWl_s5cXC1lxUxLitGGgSmMyjQ4/s1600/vanille.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641904325107160418" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 168px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 185px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXEU2FBHzWqACQlTIDQjhWjv6p4eEcjqsXWfRUSj5rnnlOoBC4O2XWwmxrGzXNmKo4YhKxwfT0f8jIkvsUyNbEQvf93ju9SKs7CIhQ5Ylq3sqGEm1O6GWl_s5cXC1lxUxLitGGgSmMyjQ4/s200/vanille.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div>
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<br /><p align="left"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpj9fJCsVJtKsypnxZv7gOx_2_7Mmg8w6PopT5X3-MsOcAgVVod8bNVCTNsdVne72QDPT9BtLUQFHudxOAutVaBcADDQ46uHb0FLoyuG63m7ZcSyRYsWdAIfnEJJyYuokafU-dfOWuwjU6/s1600/VanillaPod.gif"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641904483571018754" style="WIDTH: 142px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 182px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpj9fJCsVJtKsypnxZv7gOx_2_7Mmg8w6PopT5X3-MsOcAgVVod8bNVCTNsdVne72QDPT9BtLUQFHudxOAutVaBcADDQ46uHb0FLoyuG63m7ZcSyRYsWdAIfnEJJyYuokafU-dfOWuwjU6/s200/VanillaPod.gif" border="0" /></a>
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<br /><div align="left"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">O</span>smanthe Yunnan:</strong> Someone at Basenotes described this one perfectly as smoky, milky apricot tea. Osmanthe Yunnan is gentle and mild and features a toned down version of that peachy suede accord that is found in many of <strong>Serge Luten</strong>´s creations. On my skin OY wears a tad too weak - it just doesn’t really take off. Nevertheless a pleasant ride while it lasts. Official notes include: Yunan Tea, Orange, Freesia, Osmanthus, Apricot and Leather.</div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641906488875333858" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 278px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPTPQyDN9cYITlbHvoXUbHgt81-S4knxrUJ8Uu0CXMpB9NnZbdfKKpNXTGnvpMkFpvpdKgzZrohcROgexLF9_NyqKjJ_3IoHk0D7CKdYCJSWns1gzcy0ErqEZA6TriMr54EeUw8IrbARsL/s400/HERMESSENCE-757639.png" border="0" /> <strong>Year of Launch:</strong> 2004-2009
<br /><strong>Gender Classification:</strong> All are unisex – Vetivér Tonka, Ambré Narguilé, Poivre Samarcande & Un brin de réglisse belong to the more masculine ones.
<br /><strong>Longevity & Sillage:</strong> Great variations – moderate longevity & sillage as a whole with Ambré Narguilé being the big exception.
<br /><strong>Overall rating:</strong> 8/10 for the series as a whole.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641757694142297026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 217px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQOvYXagZvNl56oX2VdpU9__OrmrwE83I22R7iKQLa14bekxsswnxu71ODhQy_d8T_-UE6T0baBRUMJPlP4SSPo8xQ7F4k4qtSKJb14ETtq_pHdKC7PcO2umHWuPzeOvqu0wqrYhlQvIR/s320/hermes-logo1.jpg" border="0" /> MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-26842835326487389982011-08-14T10:26:00.000-07:002011-08-14T11:07:02.710-07:00No More Than meets The Eye - part III: Acqua di Parma<b>I</b>talian luxe brand Acqua di Parmas' advertising follows the sharp Art Deco-design of their near iconic packaging. Aspirational images and models are put aside in favor of strong graphic character and flacon focus.
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<br /></div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhskE55RBG39s6alZhqvK1XJRKUwrsDfTI_qXQXZl1o6nzAovCcdfN4LpS7sTcb-oEV0jPrm5CyELZW_PQwmx9V7ncnbmHpn8y1JM2si4-yPC8fpr7PoB60grIkBj2wcoMVkdv5XBFc2lxk/s320/%25283%2529-Acqua_di_Parma_1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640770778309404514" style="cursor: pointer; width: 186px; height: 256px; " /> <b><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT8s8koj_3spHLW3vNUI-OLpYz2GQNktpb0-zSy9f3Cw9wE_utNfVCjDRZHBHazBO_AqBhknU9o6Ewpj_Ykfx3_sjKorG0w7PKkHmpcR-COJ_JHYsjOnNUFDQ4XkbT6MQjaQNltnvHHqKV/s320/Colonia_Intensa.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640771167434521970" style="cursor: pointer; width: 185px; height: 256px; " /></span></b></span></b><div>
<br /><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkf-Z0wR_HMjAF8khZtYmk1G7N6TtQu7n2wk8ccYxqgtko6ye9UHh6eVtnu59lBTK7nqnJoLKZF3Nb9jpAPVXika7cTYvEo5wvyA_6SMqKRune-NSaqxZEfaBS548jnQH-dboj_SPRpZ8V/s320/Iris_Nobile_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640770935799994402" style="cursor: pointer; width: 186px; height: 256px; " /> <b><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuLUl2sCtyP8NLkK9NpPHm29ZxUEjvNVheQ0CQc6TP3lgBad_OvUmxh6lFFOufdd1FTKmsM1lW1q149zeEA7BP8frJBhHXwADffKfF9x0fYqsMHehFHVByYl1RNEO8JhW4n7lKJ-LVHLuu/s320/Acqua_di_Parma_3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640770618674366114" style="cursor: pointer; width: 189px; height: 256px; " /></span></b></span></b></span></b></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>
<br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz61bX04OGeTcu_uVokOSp3PUstz4T01OA60o8PRN3qGrbNf5o7XDFivvSNpDmVX0Z_R6XqkhCC0ROnol-vozZ618hlANiZzYGFeGwiGhWVq5_8ANsfZD_HMJMGDoOLr_R0wZPM87oei6v/s1600/Acqua_di_Parma_5.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz61bX04OGeTcu_uVokOSp3PUstz4T01OA60o8PRN3qGrbNf5o7XDFivvSNpDmVX0Z_R6XqkhCC0ROnol-vozZ618hlANiZzYGFeGwiGhWVq5_8ANsfZD_HMJMGDoOLr_R0wZPM87oei6v/s320/Acqua_di_Parma_5.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640771468132717634" style="cursor: pointer; width: 193px; height: 256px; " /></a> </span></b></span></b></span></b><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIChyphenhyphen3CISu6K3n5RDwfAFBjzYl8dScofFweK7XC-WjtYhmiltfpPQ2M9eIBJ854ZWxnEnpG4ozPBkbDkBG1qjlkCmjQxOG1Jjyj43uw2tHbgb6AgGOQ17jO1i4z9dksn875TqgqcMuzRcq/s1600/Acqua_di_Parma_6.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIChyphenhyphen3CISu6K3n5RDwfAFBjzYl8dScofFweK7XC-WjtYhmiltfpPQ2M9eIBJ854ZWxnEnpG4ozPBkbDkBG1qjlkCmjQxOG1Jjyj43uw2tHbgb6AgGOQ17jO1i4z9dksn875TqgqcMuzRcq/s320/Acqua_di_Parma_6.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640771743279209826" style="cursor: pointer; width: 169px; height: 256px; " /></a></span></b></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); font-weight: normal; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; ">
<br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKv_EZtL_WF-DRL1yqgMJcErKzrTficn9W5t4kCrx6I8t2NoNb3a3qHQMv4akB8acm4YlK34GRJpdwIt5bNE6at0G3swdL5wgPOIjS9TZaqlyaCQJJWVPCvLbpWQjLKKKqETNo1qtem8Zu/s320/Acqua_di_Parma_4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640772525760503266" style="cursor: pointer; width: 202px; height: 256px; " /></span></b></span></b><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTXnYrcQhdRmsdUpqgyVmd0nEUaLIQ1NkiJlhxJfL5FjMRpprYU_e-DJxPlrRyWx4Kven1Zt4nlVRHDU4mBhgBxzG7Wu6DA4R3lWw8C8Qou695iIBUVsHaFypAe7KkX94u5UcHM68h974E/s320/Iris_Nobile_3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640771979776565922" style="cursor: pointer; width: 187px; height: 256px; " /></span></b></span></b></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; ">
<br /></span></b></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(43, 30, 21); font-family: Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><em>(All pictures courtesy of: </em><a href="http://www.parfumsdepub.net/" style="color: rgb(179, 179, 179); text-decoration: none; "><em>www.parfumsdepub.net</em></a><em>)</em></span></div></div></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-28696345066183837182011-08-08T07:16:00.000-07:002011-08-08T07:47:18.373-07:00Speed Review: Lacoste (Original)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzOen1la2ucGxcWkHKOgQhLYNyGVDQbOVrHTALI0G28LCKwvxSBuLcd1KaVVN68WyHp4JoBIpWJ0fVDuJo_CHxW-RwzTp16LfL5WHwDcG7-e_q9e_jZYGlJuM5QzmCa_kSxvGwo6-DI00/s1600/lacoste+classic+2.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638495586569471090" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzOen1la2ucGxcWkHKOgQhLYNyGVDQbOVrHTALI0G28LCKwvxSBuLcd1KaVVN68WyHp4JoBIpWJ0fVDuJo_CHxW-RwzTp16LfL5WHwDcG7-e_q9e_jZYGlJuM5QzmCa_kSxvGwo6-DI00/s320/lacoste+classic+2.jpg" /></a><span><strong>Year of launch:</strong> 1984
<br /><strong>Gender classification:</strong> Masculine
<br /><strong>Perfumer: </strong>Unknown<strong>
<br />Availability:</strong> In production
<br /><strong>Dominant Notes:</strong> Lemon, citrus, menthol, clove, sandalwood
<br /><strong>Reminiscent of:</strong> Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Monsieur de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme
<br /><strong>Longevity & Sillage:</strong> Moderate sillage, good longevity
<br /><strong>Packaging & Design:</strong> Sporty, deep green glass flacon with white panels screaming Tennis!
<br /><strong>5 adjectives:</strong> Soapy, mossy, clean, rugged, refreshing
<br /><strong>Overall Rating:</strong> 7/10</span>
<br />MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-67987247272391192452009-02-09T12:57:00.001-08:002009-02-09T13:53:46.712-08:00Forgotten Gems Part V: Etro Heliotrope<div align="justify"><br /></div><div align="justify"><em></em><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBIyamyU2I1EZbi7er0XOVX6uu1tDodJiqiCBdwDi8QKAWxqgRpTL4A9_ZKPB9UA8wLboDXVUpTzTKlERrTS7fZnhesxKfKaTYiQfToAhx5ERdyAq4q7KZaXpLV3GFodh73jQHrcYaGUL/s1600-h/00421d.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300906669286328290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; HEIGHT: 213px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBIyamyU2I1EZbi7er0XOVX6uu1tDodJiqiCBdwDi8QKAWxqgRpTL4A9_ZKPB9UA8wLboDXVUpTzTKlERrTS7fZnhesxKfKaTYiQfToAhx5ERdyAq4q7KZaXpLV3GFodh73jQHrcYaGUL/s320/00421d.jpg" border="0" /></a>SUBTLE SUGAR RUSH. <em>Heliotrope</em> - a very nice, albeit understated, cologne from the Italian masters of eccentric paisley <strong>Etro</strong>, is often unfairly overlooked in the discussions about the great gourmands. This is the aroma of bitter sweet almonds on a bed of white flowers sprayed with caramel milk. Even though heliotrope notes have been quite widely used historically, this rendition adds beautiful layers of cherry and soft tobacco creating a sublime pastry like impression. This is not just pure marzipan.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">A</span>s mentioned, sillage is not its forte, but this is hardly an issue as I suspect a strength increase would <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR7ZaqcbRtfAiC_jH9TVJqNm6pVUkUmPXq4xg4JSgh1iFURHeDpEJQ78dca0VInUy8zTaHSz1EYYVOaT0LIPi9PJiEjhEBfJo8Re9asodW8QGgzDqDHsc3rY504WNbWS8Ymb69hhB8uwDv/s1600-h/heliotrope.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300907314882467426" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 166px; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR7ZaqcbRtfAiC_jH9TVJqNm6pVUkUmPXq4xg4JSgh1iFURHeDpEJQ78dca0VInUy8zTaHSz1EYYVOaT0LIPi9PJiEjhEBfJo8Re9asodW8QGgzDqDHsc3rY504WNbWS8Ymb69hhB8uwDv/s200/heliotrope.jpg" border="0" /></a>just make it overtly sweet and cloying. Also I was quite surprised to learn that this was released in 1989 as it comes across as much more contemporary and soft compared to what stuff generally smelled like then. A fact that further proves Heliotrope was ahead of the curve and probably has served as an inspiration for fragrances like <strong>Dior</strong>'s <em>Bois d'Argent</em>, <strong>L'Artisan Parfumeur</strong>'s <em>Bois Farine</em> and <strong>Cerutti</strong> <em>Black</em>.</div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"><br />Captivating, precious and gentle.</div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"><strong><br />Overall Rating: 7/10</strong></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-32354256913727995732009-02-02T11:28:00.000-08:002009-02-02T11:46:09.009-08:00Speed Review: Lalique White<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9e57X1jMevOPL4tiLrh7fw0V7_KdTTmByWqHrZy4mialf04bsmBOaY9DFPffP6t-alxYpatY_eZmjku2opoDA16y6ds-8L2ZIa-bZdWvl7t2mydFw55pgqX-CGJ_9R5DgzKCxQXcDTvp4/s1600-h/lalique.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298284344185625778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 291px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9e57X1jMevOPL4tiLrh7fw0V7_KdTTmByWqHrZy4mialf04bsmBOaY9DFPffP6t-alxYpatY_eZmjku2opoDA16y6ds-8L2ZIa-bZdWvl7t2mydFw55pgqX-CGJ_9R5DgzKCxQXcDTvp4/s320/lalique.jpg" border="0" /></a><strong>Year of Launch:</strong> 2008<br /><strong>Gender Classification:</strong> Masculine<br /><strong>Perfumer:</strong> Christine Nagel<br /><strong>Availability:</strong> In production<br /><strong>Dominant Notes:</strong> Lemon leaves, tamarind, bergamot, violet, white pepper, nutmeg, amber, cedar , musk<br /><strong>Reminiscent of:</strong> Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche, L'Eau par Kenzo pour Homme, Dior Homme Sport<br /><strong>Longevity & Sillage:</strong> Moderate sillage, average longevity<br /><strong>Packaging & Design:</strong> Broad shouldered matte white flacon, somewhat dissapointing given the brands prestigious history of crystal craftsmanship<br /><strong>5 adjectives:</strong> Contemporary, safe, citrusy, hesperidic, smooth<br /><strong>Overall rating:</strong> 6/10MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-5788764775225353082009-01-26T11:24:00.000-08:002009-02-02T11:42:43.182-08:00Aramis - Bermuda Tonic<div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpnE_CiR4Ayhl0sfSj5m53hozi8Pwj4xOJfwZy-Rm-hfe-Tzmc2-HS6fYCJYh3CYbPDfgODogB2bxZ9Y1PrgqCtv2XS4sMpFkuIJWgwhiMuIoIpR49Gf3pqrsQj-hZcUJRKRKqZKoK2caE/s1600-h/bermuda.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295946951618557090" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 188px; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpnE_CiR4Ayhl0sfSj5m53hozi8Pwj4xOJfwZy-Rm-hfe-Tzmc2-HS6fYCJYh3CYbPDfgODogB2bxZ9Y1PrgqCtv2XS4sMpFkuIJWgwhiMuIoIpR49Gf3pqrsQj-hZcUJRKRKqZKoK2caE/s200/bermuda.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-size:85%;">PINEAPPLE EXPRESS.</span> </span></span><span style="font-size:130%;">I</span>n the present cold and dark European winter, one's <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFK2_6q0h4WmCaPNeGM8WuO7i545VgxvCzMCQxMD5ux7htw0LV-GUAhtGq4Drv_mo8tCVcGbILGgg_3fV0ovonLFJfi1ZQEE0HQrmmHF08a_gQTeUK8vltSViYv8PwFfOmyT_kZe-S32Ee/s1600-h/bermuda.jpg"></a>mind easily wanders away toward carefree summer days and dreams of a nice tropical vacation. <span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-size:100%;">V</span></span>ery light and breezy and not something for a cold climate or mindset - <em>Bermuda Tonic</em> from <strong>Estée Lauders</strong> <em>Aramis</em>-line is just what would suit such a day of relaxing in the sun. </div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"><br />T</span>his is basically a "resort fragrance", very Piña Colada-ish featuring a pleasant blend of bitter rhum, sweet coconut and juicy pineapples. The overall impression is very crisp with a lightly salty touch reminiscent of sea and wind. A slightly astringent lime remains troughout the development of the fragrance.<br /><br /></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;">T</span>his is a tonic however and intentionally designed to be <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvXDHhNEIkOsc-KcwTkPd33wFHcMR2AicKVzRS26A7Bo5A41d7nC4nK6ghDVyFOTlong_0N3XDcbm9nFr2g-5fLLatYho-UUljuK_jwH05DKfhTd1plzEfvheimAX76hvs58UC17KuqvS4/s1600-h/SP4~Coconut-Posters.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295686736469114226" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 158px; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvXDHhNEIkOsc-KcwTkPd33wFHcMR2AicKVzRS26A7Bo5A41d7nC4nK6ghDVyFOTlong_0N3XDcbm9nFr2g-5fLLatYho-UUljuK_jwH05DKfhTd1plzEfvheimAX76hvs58UC17KuqvS4/s200/SP4~Coconut-Posters.jpg" border="0" /></a>sprayed very liberally since it's quite weak- so beware of seriously fleeting character. </div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"><br />C</span>losest sibling is <strong>Creed</strong>'s <em>Virgin Island Water</em> and whilst the latter is definitely the better of the two, it's hardly worth the much steeper price. </div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"><br />T</span>o conclude, Bermuda Tonic is a good, fun and leisure fragragrance. In it's inviting packaging, it was a nice 2005 release of Lauder and a welcome strenghtening of their portfolio after some dissapointing launches. </div><div align="justify"><br /></div><div align="justify"><strong></strong></div><div align="justify"><strong></strong></div><div align="justify"><strong><br />Year of Launch:</strong> 2005<br /><strong>Gender Classification:</strong> Masculine<br /><strong>Reminiscent of:</strong> Creed Virgin Island Water, Calvin Klein Obsession Night for Men, Jil Sander Sun</div><div align="justify"><strong>Longevity & Sillage:</strong> Both below average<br /><strong>Overall Rating:</strong> 6/1o</div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-18371528926498824602009-01-04T05:14:00.000-08:002009-01-04T05:22:38.034-08:00The Citrus Anatomy Part IV – Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée<div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6KorCjwCpg_Jbmd2NXFVpmPWEvtqC4T2CFgZK2xVtnOw4-J7Qg0VEqM8xu3QB-NhrSdnhVyO1ywDXpnR9k24pt8lkmsB9c-4ZHSWHTeJLv9dBslqIUB-ZrHlvA5JGNLmjMyFsV3dPxZ7U/s1600-h/chanel+pm.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287427964939212242" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 195px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 245px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6KorCjwCpg_Jbmd2NXFVpmPWEvtqC4T2CFgZK2xVtnOw4-J7Qg0VEqM8xu3QB-NhrSdnhVyO1ywDXpnR9k24pt8lkmsB9c-4ZHSWHTeJLv9dBslqIUB-ZrHlvA5JGNLmjMyFsV3dPxZ7U/s400/chanel+pm.jpg" border="0" /></a><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">J</span>acques Polge</strong>’s flawless 1989 update of the classic <em>Pour Monsieur </em>is indeed stronger compared to the original, but above all of a superior craft. It feels considerably more modern, but not edgy in any way. Added to the wonderful initial blasts of various citrus fruits are clear notes of nutmeg, cardamom and something smelling slightly like coconut. The basenotes feature a sweet creaminess, an oriental vanilla not unlike the one found in numerous <strong>Guerlain </strong>perfumes, that is perfectly balanced with the by then fading spices and dry mossy heart.<br /><br /><em><span style="font-size:130%;">P</span>our Monsieur Concentrée</em> is actually more reminiscent of <strong>Dior</strong>´s <em>Eau Sauvage</em> than the original Pour Monsieur, the latter being a straightforward citrusy chypre while both <em>PMC</em> and Eau Sauvage transcend traditional categorization and have way more intangible compositions. In my experience the truly great citrus fragrances have at least one of two parameters: Superior, often natural smelling ingredients, like <em>Eau de Rochas Pour Homme</em> and <strong>Annick Goutal</strong>´s <em>Eau de Hadrien</em>, or a level of abstraction that makes them rise above the genre in general, like <em>New York</em> from <strong>Parfums de Nicolaï</strong>. This <strong>Chanel </strong>easily fulfills both those criteria. Comfortable and truly a class act.<br /></div><div align="justify"><strong>Overall rating: 7/10</strong></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-79038124148988923532008-12-29T03:28:00.000-08:002008-12-29T03:48:21.902-08:00Burberry - Brit for Men<div align="justify"> </div><div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF4bc8j6RJauE2yS96YjE_XeUUA8-eMrCon6tN6i47BrzOEc8uxx3aklFOA3PZccHD8LzCK4bgoDXPU3xRmPzV_t6_Smf5mtuQuyBiuYcP81Lxj4CFJ3iV0QL4tn8C9NeopMWzL723pgc1/s1600-h/BURBERRY%2520Brit%2520reklama2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285176971129723010" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 284px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF4bc8j6RJauE2yS96YjE_XeUUA8-eMrCon6tN6i47BrzOEc8uxx3aklFOA3PZccHD8LzCK4bgoDXPU3xRmPzV_t6_Smf5mtuQuyBiuYcP81Lxj4CFJ3iV0QL4tn8C9NeopMWzL723pgc1/s400/BURBERRY%2520Brit%2520reklama2.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:130%;">A</span> few mainstream designer houses have a fragrance portfolio that is unexpectedly impressive, producing progressive and quality stuff long after their clothes and overall aesthetic jumped the shark. A very good example is pre-<em>Light Blue</em> <strong>Dolce & Gabbana</strong>. Even though the designers themselves are somewhat of a sellout joke nowadays, licensing their names to pretty much anything and targeting teenagers with their tacky logo ridden garments, their perfume section is still going strong. From the tobacco heavy <em>pour Homme</em> via the musky amber bomb <em>By</em> trough to the pleasant citrus of <em>D&G Masculine</em> and the comforting woods of<em> The One,</em> Dolce & Gabbana fragrances are simply good.<br /><div><br /></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;">A</span>nother case in point – <strong>Burberry</strong>. Even though Burberry still produces exclusive clothing and high quality luxury items, especially under the <strong>Prorsum</strong> label, the brand undoubtedly has been somewhat watered down the last decade. Similar to <strong>Tommy Hilfiger</strong> in the early 90´s, Burberrys fell for the temptation of catering to logo loving casuals and football hooligans, thus making the brand associations less appealing for the trench coat- and luxury bag buyers. Under the excellent supervision of <em>Christopher Bailey</em> they are back on track though, and the perfume side is strong as ever, <em>Brit for Men</em> being an excellent illustration. Other high-quality Burberry fragrances include the violety sweet <em>Touch</em>, the boozy green <em>London </em>and the highly versatile minty fresh <em>Burberry for Men</em>. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGNryRano3e_HNk5Qo7fehrIRM-PixbxsEF6SPCPSYpn2ph47cuLzMaCasi_IT4PHWkJnHaCSAnUYHQuVLe8yhx_5AoHl5XzuLwWTZOdTmbh7Gy9zJlUt5r6pajFrJr4ZBnGEZsCMQ2Eeh/s1600-h/Burberry%2520knight.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285176760902267058" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; float: right; width: 199px; height: 200px;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGNryRano3e_HNk5Qo7fehrIRM-PixbxsEF6SPCPSYpn2ph47cuLzMaCasi_IT4PHWkJnHaCSAnUYHQuVLe8yhx_5AoHl5XzuLwWTZOdTmbh7Gy9zJlUt5r6pajFrJr4ZBnGEZsCMQ2Eeh/s200/Burberry%2520knight.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div><span style="font-size:130%;"></span> </div><div><span style="font-size:130%;"><br />M</span>any are a bit underwhelmed when first sampling Brit. And sure, this is not a sillage monster or <em>Joop!</em> competitor. Instead, Brit is a very cleverly updated modern oriental. It´s sensual and soft and clearly designed to be enjoyed by a loved one close to your skin. Like many <strong>L’Artisan Parfumeur</strong> fragrances, Brit sports a remarkable longevity though; the powdery sweetness lingers subtly for hours.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">A</span>n immediate association for me is gingerbread, the Swedish Christmas kind with plenty of cardamom. Other notes mingling happily together with the sharp ginger include spicy nutmeg and green zesty mandarins. The heart notes are dominated by a bold rose, obviously a conscious choice of perfumer <em>Antoine Maisondieu</em>. Rose, along with lavender the most characteristically English of notes, was of course a must ingredient to incorporate in this national homage. </div><div><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">N</span>ational references aside, Brit also serves as a bridge between traditional perfumery and modern. Carelessly blending time honored barbershop tradition with cheeky synthetic accords. The end result is truly greater than the sum of its parts. Maisondieu has created the ideal <em>Hammam Bouquet</em> of the 21: st century. Playful, dandyish and delicate.<br /></div><div><strong><br />Year of Launch:</strong> 2004<br /><strong>Gender Classification:</strong> Masculine<br /><strong>Reminiscent of:</strong> Boucheron Jaïpur, Paloma Picasso Minotaure, Chanel Allure Homme<br /><strong>Longevity & Sillage:</strong> Limited output, above average longevity<br /><strong>Overall Rating:</strong> 8/1o </div></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-31868658363965778952008-12-27T14:35:00.001-08:002008-12-27T15:08:51.580-08:00Speed Review: Annick Goutal - Musc Nomade<div align="left"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Yxn9ubkenit2jTVEgCzIMLV0yL9jAX1PH71oB531WD4DUuHAK_4vmqA3pPHkyKdVG3DganpBvnhz4Kvh_wvytUasG_UpphtohOuCxflTAo3oXTPUl_hIoyRRsdnZV6TcwNM529sDoNlH/s1600-h/musc+nomade.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284606011152140914" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 186px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 309px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Yxn9ubkenit2jTVEgCzIMLV0yL9jAX1PH71oB531WD4DUuHAK_4vmqA3pPHkyKdVG3DganpBvnhz4Kvh_wvytUasG_UpphtohOuCxflTAo3oXTPUl_hIoyRRsdnZV6TcwNM529sDoNlH/s400/musc+nomade.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Year of Launch:</strong> 2008<br /><strong>Gender Classification:</strong> Unisex<br /><strong>Perfumer:</strong> Camille Goutal & Isabelle Doyen<br /><strong>Availability:</strong> In production<br /><strong>Dominant notes:</strong> Musks, rose, agarwood, angelica root, ambrette seed, Bombay wood, Tonka bean<br /><strong>Reminiscent of:</strong> Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne, Montale Roses Musk<br /><strong>Longevity & Sillage:</strong> Moderate sillage, decent longevity<br /><strong>Packaging & Design:</strong> Standard Goutal flacon with the <em>Les Orientalistes</em> graphic, Musc Nomade is the fourth in the series<br /><strong>5 adjectives:</strong> Minimalist, intimate, rosey, resinous, smooth</div><div align="left"><strong>Overall rating:</strong> 6/10<br /><br /></div><div align="left"><br /></div><div align="left"></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-26985972236046350342008-12-25T02:45:00.000-08:002008-12-25T02:56:33.015-08:00Oscar de la Renta - Pour Lui<div align="justify"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283677102777570498" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 416px; height: 265px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuPWiescbiICOf_pMG0Gw4UHxLfCJIpW3PEU3L3z0mA8X88jSqq3jNMhx4B6vTZOit6jOfvVll57KsMbc-1qyNTxrVZTL16_pXq6zh1_EiNLF7GLJaJpc0qZrQgpugzKKqZKKBZpI__6yH/s400/flower-closeup.jpg" border="0" /><strong><span style="font-size:130%;">O</span>scar de la Renta’s</strong> signature scent from 1981 is a powerful and heady floral chypre for men. With massive output typical for 80´s fragrances in general, it firmly lands in the same category as <strong>Van Cleef & Arpels</strong> <em>pour Homme</em> and <strong>Floris</strong> <em>Elite</em>. This one is vastly superior though, especially compared to the latter brit.<br /><div align="justify"><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjUaG9sYLx1VdgGiV1AWTeSW87SIEXCygAIpkfVDodHBGpxA-BalxvBAb9VFB_cgUsrhVv7Og-Pn8IPEhg9p-O9hTQI8CPFUTAWMpJT7b86b6NtZAGy6YpDGLaEN8uPj_QR3mc3jraHQVh/s1600-h/pour+lui.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283677885223548098" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left; width: 320px; height: 320px;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjUaG9sYLx1VdgGiV1AWTeSW87SIEXCygAIpkfVDodHBGpxA-BalxvBAb9VFB_cgUsrhVv7Og-Pn8IPEhg9p-O9hTQI8CPFUTAWMpJT7b86b6NtZAGy6YpDGLaEN8uPj_QR3mc3jraHQVh/s320/pour+lui.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:130%;">I</span>t never takes the floral part too far and settles down to a nice powdery, musk base. But before hitting the base notes you´re in for one generous trip. Arid spices and herbs like carnation, geranium, oakmoss, lavender and cinnamon are embraced by elegant but strong incense. Further notes of vetiver, leather and gloomy florals are anchored by sturdy aldehydes. The aldehydic character makes the whole composition come across a bit like a masculine equivalent of <strong>Chanel</strong>´s ultra classic <em>No 5</em>. </div><div align="justify"> </div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"><br />P</span>our Lui’s quiet brilliance lies in combining all these diverse ingredients and dissonant notes and coming out on top with a smooth, refined, slightly abstract and mysterious blend.<br /></div><div align="justify"><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">V</span>ery far from the fresh scents of today, in small doses Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui is the perfect complement to a good dark suit. Formal, dry, unique and dense.<br /></div><div align="justify"><strong><br />Year of Launch:</strong> 1981</div><div align="justify"><strong>Gender Classification:</strong> Masculine</div><div align="justify"><strong>Reminiscent of:</strong> Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme, Floris Elite, Balenciaga Ho Hang Club, Estée Lauder Aramis, Chanel Antaeus, Trussardi Uomo</div><div align="justify"><strong>Longevity & Sillage:</strong> Both stellar<br /><strong>Overall Rating:</strong> 6/1o </div></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-86367678398283317742008-12-15T11:28:00.000-08:002008-12-15T11:53:22.253-08:00Lorenzo Villoresi - Teint de Neige<div align="justify"><br /></div><div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4xC5vUEVrFQJJaxbbC90L6Et-VppZpGkL00SoE2-zW9DyowPh5gse-IxfEIZVop7cL0RP774adRfFiJDjycU1DrAerS5luPzpgGvdWW1layBD1DVQz5xTDgLKH7mqouj5RHcAOutENZ71/s1600-h/Snow-Clad-Trees-thumb.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280101651772725506" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left; width: 230px; height: 320px;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4xC5vUEVrFQJJaxbbC90L6Et-VppZpGkL00SoE2-zW9DyowPh5gse-IxfEIZVop7cL0RP774adRfFiJDjycU1DrAerS5luPzpgGvdWW1layBD1DVQz5xTDgLKH7mqouj5RHcAOutENZ71/s320/Snow-Clad-Trees-thumb.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;">T</span>he colour of snow is white, as is the colour of powder. And surely <em>Teint de Neige</em> is one of the most powdery fragrances ever created. The description even reads: <em>"The essence of perfumed powders</em>". </div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"></span> </div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"><br />T</span>his is a somewhat demanding fragrance, make no mistake about it. Some will unquestionably find it too nostalgic, reminiscent of "old things" like their grand mothers make up cabinet or boudoirs in general. Personally I can't wear it myself either, mainly due to the strong tonka bean in the basenotes that doesn't sit well on my skin. But what a fine piece of perfumery it is.<br /></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-size:130%;"></span></span> </div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-size:130%;"><br />T</span>eint de Neige is like a sleigh ride through beautiful snow clad landscapes. Impressions of jasmin and rose create a profound floral ambiance that attractively transcends into a soft foundation of heliotrope with its characteristically almond like gentle aroma. The slightly astringent quality of ylang ylang prevents it from going too sugary and gives it just a touch of sharpness making the composition even more interesting. </span><span style="font-size:100%;">After many hours the progression finally settles in creamy sweet musks and a clean talc accord.</span> </div><p align="justify"></p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280105847604309122" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 331px; height: 210px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcu00ZtIVpR-4JARceDCWaNuHDvrWqrIS951_Nh0yGW4FhpYUBLjqn38Q39mF1tseO_Ek1B5_mHv51xYchF-RQ5CbLuBEsttL7_AASsA7x2rkD2PDjtQss_Z97Z8X6Pf3UCMUvs61SpCyV/s400/gruppo%2520bianco.jpg" border="0" /> <p align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;">I</span>f you belong to the people who can pull this <strong>Villoresi</strong> off, then you are in for a very special treat. Either way, this masterful, cloudy and complex blend deserves some serious respect.<br /><br /><strong></strong></p><span style="font-weight: bold;">Year of Launch:</span> 2000<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Gender Classification:</span> Unisex<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Reminiscent of:</span> Lorenzo Villoresi Musk, Etro Heliotrope<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Longevity & Sillage:</span> Both well above average<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Overall Rating:</span> 8/1o<div align="justify"></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-701490488970949144.post-37537309325320159792008-12-11T09:05:00.000-08:002008-12-11T09:25:37.559-08:00Speed Review: Gianfranco Ferré - Bergamotto Marino<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE3ndFOlnh-mQojNopsPggN9KRzV3TU252-Is-zGM9BmPUKRI2dSN0HOJKUJwsO-t5Z5WKpOtgSq31CVBw70I1jjENv7RwC5-T6fF3Ao6bXSb6b_hui9ewzdiM57q_LzbNZEw-Mymn90Pp/s1600-h/ferr%C3%A9.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278582674327869938" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 250px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE3ndFOlnh-mQojNopsPggN9KRzV3TU252-Is-zGM9BmPUKRI2dSN0HOJKUJwsO-t5Z5WKpOtgSq31CVBw70I1jjENv7RwC5-T6fF3Ao6bXSb6b_hui9ewzdiM57q_LzbNZEw-Mymn90Pp/s320/ferr%C3%A9.jpg" border="0" /></a><strong>Year of Launch:</strong> 2006<br /><div><div><strong>Gender Classification:</strong> Unisex</div><div><strong>Perfumer:</strong> Pierre Bourdon</div><div><strong>Availability:</strong> In Production</div><div><strong>Dominant notes:</strong> Bergamot, jasmine, oakmoss, seaweed black currant, musk, orange blossom</div><div><strong>Reminiscent of:</strong> Diesel Fuel for Life Pour Homme</div><div><strong>Longevity & Sillage</strong>: Both slightly above average</div><div><strong>Packaging & Design:</strong> Pretty and classic round glass flacon, but the overall design is just a bit too similar to Frederic Malle's range that was introduced years before...</div><div><strong>5 adjectives:</strong> Clean, refreshing, gentle, floral, soapy</div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong> </div><div><strong>Overall rating:</strong> 7/10<br /></div><br /><br /><div></div></div>MonkeyManMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04439728286698365627noreply@blogger.com0