Monkeymanmatt

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Ecrin d’Eaux de Toilette - Les Masculins - Holiday 2011

2011-12-29T14:24:00.000-08:00

AFRICA, ABSINTHE & A MISNAMED TEA-PARTY. In time for the holidays L' Artisan Parfumeur presented two beautifully composed gift sets of 3 x 15 ml of some of their finest fragrances. The feminine box contains Nuit de Tubéreuse, Mûre et Musc and La Chasse aux Papillons while the men's collection features Fou d’Absinthe, Coeur de Vétiver Sacré and Timbuktu.

The latter gift set conveniently found it´s way to my Christmas tree and I have been enjoying it immensely the last couple of days. The selection is perfectly put together balancing both dry woods, fougere soapiness and oriental smoothness. A little something for many different moods.

Timbuktu (2004): Perhaps perfumer Bertrand Douchafours' finest work. Timbuktu, inspired by ancient Mali perfume rituals, is a bone dry, woody blend with great depth and character. Spicy cardamom, austere papyrus and dense frankincense together make for a heady and natural accord. Ripe mango and fresh pink pepper beautifully balance the scorching impact of the arid spices.

There is a subtle presence of vetiver throughout the evolution of the fragrance, no doubt enhancing the slightly earthy, bitter and smoky impression. Myrrh, patchouli and benzoin eventually seal the deal with a smooth and lasting drydown.

Exotic, evocative and complex.

Fou d'Absinthe (2006): The incredibly talented Olivia Giacobbetis' contribution to the world of fougeres is actually somewhat of a contemporary bench mark of said genre. Fou d'Absinthe is not as much a tribute to the "green fairy" as it is a strongly coniferous pine fragrance. The opening is a sharp blast of astringent angelica - boozy and bold. Heart notes appear quickly though, developing the composition into more well behaved territory with creamy pepper, candied ginger and smooth patchouli.

Clove and cistus create a very strong barbershop-vibe, something further accentuated by the pine needles and fir balsam in the basenotes. The references to classic fougeres like Penhaligon´s English Fern, Dunhill Edition and Brut are evident, yet Fou d'Absinthe has a distinct contemporary personality of it´s own - learning from history without living in it. Eau de parfum strength that really does last the whole day, unfortunately a rare characteristic of this house.

Soapy, elegant and masculine.

Coeur de Vétiver Sacré (2010): Karine Vinchon-Spehners' terribly underrated Coeur de Vétiver Sacré is most of all a victim of unfortunate naming. The vetiver in here is after all kept at a minimum - something that has caused disappointment within the community of afficionados of this pungent root. Quite a vocal crowd in the world of perfume lovers...

Forget about the name though, this is a gem of a black tea fragrance with pleasant fruitiness and a gentle apricotish suede like character not unlike the one found in Serge Lutens fragrances like Daim Blond and Santal Blanc. Rose petals and fresh dates rest alongside this cup of steaming ginger infused bergamot and osmanthus tea.

Incense and birch tar add smokiness which makes the overall impression somewhat reminiscent of Knize´s rough Ten and Santa Maria Novella´s Nostalgia but with the leather and petrol accord way turned down. Pepper and coriander contribute some sting while subtle saffron, dry iris and clean musk anchor the fragrance smoothly.

A modern, delicate and cozy oriental.

Overall rating: 9/10 for the gift collection as a whole.

Speed Review: Penhaligon´s - Juniper Sling

2011-12-18T12:27:00.000-08:00

Year of launch: 2011

Gender classification: Unisex (quite manly)

Perfumer: Olivier Cresp

Availability: In production

Dominant Notes: Cinnamon, Orange Brandy, Angelica, Juniper Berry, Cardamom, Black Pepper, Orris Wood and Vetiver

Reminiscent of: Guerlain Coriolan, Bombay Sapphire Infusion, Hugh Parsons Blue

Packaging & Design: Elegant Art-Deco patterned mint green box, silver bow-tied clear glass flacon, chrome mirror label

Longevity & Sillage: Miniscule sillage, far below average longevity

5 adjectives: Flat, dry, peppery, weak, clean

Overall Rating: 4/10

Decades of Decadence part II: Annick Goutal Ambre Fétiche

2011-12-07T03:24:00.000-08:00

In the four fragrances comprising the Les Orientalistes-series the House of Annick Goutal takes a welcome departure to the darker and more mysterious sides of perfumery.

I have a great deal of respect for the very natural, honest style of this house - with citrus benchmarks like Eau d´Hadrien, the coarse beauty of Sables and Duel and the true to life dewey freshness of Ninfeo Mio. Yet most of the Goutal back catalogue lacks a certain excitement - more competent, organic little poems than complex epic novels.

This started changing already with the excellent spicy Mandragore and the more intense version Mandragore Pourpre but is even more evident in Ambre Fétiche and the other three orientals Myrrhe Ardente, Encens Flamboyant and Musc Nomade. Especially Ambre Fétiche stands out as very "non-Goutalesque" with it´s smoldering spices, opulent richness and heavy duty sillage.

The initial blast is brutal - bitter, medicinal and almost overpowering. But this fierce top swiftly gives way to a creamy and dense amber with a strong and syrupy vanilla presence. Thus far many ambers are similar, especially L´Artisan Parfumeur´s Ambre Extréme comes to mind. But it is what follows that separates Ambre Fétiche from many of it´s niche counterparts.

A beautiful smoke and leather accord, probably achieved with labdanum and birch tar, lifts the whole composition to a whole new level successfully balancing out the intense sweetness. This smoke accord also has a salty steamlike quality much like the one found in Penhaligon´s Sartorial.

The overall impression is deep, dark, voluptous, bohemian and timeless. Both sillage and longevity are amazing. This stays on your skin forever.

Apart from being an excellent fragrance, Ambre Fétiche - as well as the others in Les Orientalistes - are a great work of artistic integrity and cohesion. In an age where fragrance brands compete fiercely with pretentious copy and increasingly ridiculous concepts - this line of fragrances does exactly what it´s supposed to - evoke visions of an ancient, lavish middle east with steamy hammams, luxurious spices and precious incense.

In Ambre Fétiche Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal have not only created one of the great modern ambers, they have also successfully widened the brilliance of this esteemed perfume house.

Overall Rating: 9/10

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Batucada

2011-12-01T13:02:00.001-08:00

BRAZILIAN (B)LOWOUT. L'Artisan Parfumeur´s recent movement towards more accessible mainstream compositions definitely continues with this new homage to Brazil and it´s vibrant culture.

Batucada, apparently inspired by a fast paced substyle of samba, is a simple but very enjoyable fizzy fresh blend. Notes of lemon and coconut together with a caipirinha accord constructed with mint, lime and syrupy sugar cane play the main roles together. Some pyramids also mention tiare, ylang ylang, amber, benzoin, sandalwood, vetiver and vanilla. But honestly the firstly mentioned notes along with a little too much calone and some light skin musk is what I mostly pick up.

No doubt a pleasant and cheerful choice for hot summer days, but ultimately I expect more from a house that has given us such classics as Dzing!, Timbuktu and Bois Farine. Fun but fleeting.

Year of Launch: 2011
Gender Classification: Unisex
Reminiscent of: Aramis Bermuda Tonic, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Bahiana
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate projection, low staying power
Overall Rating: 6/1o

Speed Review: Hermès - Santal Massoia

2011-11-27T07:50:00.000-08:00

Year of launch: 2011

Gender classification: Unisex

(leaning slightly to the feminine side)
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Sandalwood, massoia bark, coconut
Reminiscent of: Eau de Cartier, L'Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine
Longevity & Sillage: Light projection, below average longevity

Packaging & Design: Standard Hermès Hermessence flacon with an elegant light brown brushed suede cap
5 adjectives: Milky, sweet, airy, floral, woody
Overall Rating: 6,5/10

Marc Jacobs - Bang Bang

2011-10-30T12:30:00.000-07:00

BANG FOR THE BUCK. Apart from the somewhat silly and uninspired name, Bang Bang by Marc Jacobs is actually a very competent flanker to last years successful original.

Just like Bang, the dry, peppery woody base remains but has now been updated with a modern minty top and some opening creamy citrus notes. This adds some welcome herbal plumpness and a zesty sting to the rough, smoky vetiver heart. Deep notes of sage and patchouli mellow the overall impression for a significantly smoother ride compared to the original.

Part of the charm of the original was it´s coarse and minimalist approach, which - at the same -time easily turns into monotony and ultimately boredom. Not so with this update. Overall a more complete and wearable fun fragrance. Uplifting, modern and masculine.

Additional official notes include lemon, fennel, cardamom, sandalwood and cashmere musks.

Year of Launch: 2011
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Geranium pour Monsieur, Hermès Poivre Samarcande, Armani Sport Code
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate projection, very good staying power
Overall Rating: 7/1o

GUIDE - Fragrances for Fall/www.manolo.se

2011-10-09T03:00:00.000-07:00

Sweden´s premiere Men´s Style Blog, www.manolo.se, recently published my guide on fragrances especially suited for autumn. Article in Swedish here: http://www.manolo.se/artiklar/artikel/20110808/varma-hostdofter

Speed Review: Creed - Aventus

2011-10-01T09:45:00.000-07:00

Year of launch: 2010
Gender classification: Masculine
Perfumer: Olivier & Erwin Creed
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Blackcurrant, bergamot, apple, pineapple, patchouli, oak moss, musk, ambergris and vanilla.
Reminiscent of: Ralph Lauren Romance Silver, Armani Attitude, Paco Rabanne Black XS for Him
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate to good projection, excellent staying power
Packaging & Design: Standard Creed flacon with added black leather wrap and silver plaquet
5 adjectives: Fruity, smoky, crisp, mossy, elegant
Overall Rating: 8/10

DSQUARED2 - Potion

2011-09-27T10:46:00.000-07:00

A LIGHTER SHADE OF PALE. DSQUARED2: s first foray into masculine perfumery, He Wood (2007), was a competent albeit simple blend of violets and vetiver. Uncomplicated, yet instantly recognizable and pleasant. Since then a few flankers have appeared, all of them with some merit of their own. All in all a good olfactory resume so far for the extravagant Caten-twins Dean and Dan.

Therefore I was quite excited to try out their latest launch - Potion. Additionally, the nose is the esteemed Annick Ménardo, creator of previous brilliance like Bulgari Black, YSL Body Kouros and Dior’s Bois D'Argent.

And Potion does deliver. But, unfortunately far too weakly. The longevity and sillage of this is incredibly low – more like a fragrant whisper than the eau de parfum strength signalled on the great looking apothecary style flacon… Three spritzes faded into oblivion within an hour on my skin. This really is a pity on this woodsy, spicy and innovative concoction.

During it's brief presence, Potion delivers a smooth, minty almost absinthe-tinged ride. The opening is boldly boozy, herbal and slightly bitter but rapidly mellows down to gentle spices and dry woods. The main accord is austere and strict , creating an almost pale/white impression where very classic ingredients come together in a contemporary manner - much like Comme des Garcons' early stuff.

Official notes include red mint leaves, angelica, thyme, rose petals, black peppercorns, gentian, cinnamon, cashmere wood, patchouli, amber and musk. A note missing from the official list is nutmeg, which I pick up strongly - especially on the dry down. Hints of smoky incense, dry cedar and soft amber purr together before Potion fades out completely.

Overall Potion is a well crafted, fairly original blend obviously made from high quality ingredients. This clearly stands out from the majority of new designer releases and reinforces the obviously high ambitions of this particular house regarding fragrances. Creative and extremely wearable.

Ultimately, and unfortunately so, the insanely low staying power and projection significantly lowers the overall experience. Hopefully DSQUARED2 puts out an “extreme” version or something in that direction soon. Apparently the wide range of ancillary products features a perfume oil version that might be worth looking up in hopes of increased output.

Year of Launch: 2011
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Gucci Pour Homme, L’Artisan Parfumeur Fou d’Absinthe, Cacharel Pour Homme, Hermès Eau de Gentian Blanche, Comme des Garcons White
Longevity & Sillage: Both unfortunately extremely low
Overall Rating: 6/1o

The Citrus Anatomy part V - Guerlain Homme L´Eau

2011-09-20T02:56:00.000-07:00

The latest instalment in Guerlain´s Homme-series is actually the by far most accomplished yet. Better and more balanced than both the original and intense versions, L´Eau is highly wearable for summer and crisp fall days. It retains the rum/mojito accord from the original and has a cool, bracing mint note. The harsh and synthetic wood accord from previous versions has been replaced by classic eau de cologne notes with zesty citrus, pungent herbs and icy geranium.

Additional notes include lime, bergamot, grapefruit, cedar and vetiver.

For me this is a perfect update of Hermès Eau de orange verte concentrée. Same elegant classic style but with better longevity and some added complexity. The frosted glass flacon looks good and represents the content very well. Good projection and excellent staying power. Overall a winner and perhaps more importantly - finally a modern classic for Guerlain´s in house perfumer Thierry Wasser.

Overall rating: 8/10

Speed Review: Tom Ford - Azure Lime

2011-08-31T10:43:00.000-07:00

Year of launch: 2010
Gender classification: Unisex
Perfumer: Unknown
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Lime, Neroli, Juniper, Valencia Orange, Basil, Mint, Musk, something aquatic (calone?)
Reminiscent of: Christian Dior Eau Sauvage, Hermès Eau d´Orange Concentree
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate on both accounts
Packaging & Design: Standard Tom Ford rectangular dark brown glass flacon
5 adjectives: Vivid, sparkling, zesty, aquatic, herbal
Overall Rating: 6/10

Hermès-Hermessence

2011-08-17T02:23:00.001-07:00

A(I)RISTOCRACY. French masters of equestrian elegance - Hermès - are described as one of the last outposts of true luxury in Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster by journalist Dana Thomas (2007). I agree with Ms. Thomas’ assessment – their sense of quality and craft are certainly reflected in the selection of fragrances on offer.

In the Hermessence-line in house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena explores different high quality raw materials in “olfactory poems”. This concept of simple, yet personal and original perfume goes especially well with Mr. Ellena’s trade mark airy “legere” style.

My encounters with this range follow below – beginning with my favorite ones (and continuing in descending order).

Vetivér Tonka: Much like L´Occitanes’ Vetyver this is not a vetiver for the hardcore aficionados of the pungent grass/root. Rather Vetivér Tonka takes a mild and tempered approach to vetiver with soft complementing notes. A slight smokiness does however remain, mingling beautifully with sweet caramelized hazelnuts and mellow tobacco. Official notes include Neroli, Bergamot, Vetiver, Roasted Hazelnuts, Dried Fruit, Cereals and Tonka Bean – but the blend is seamless and mostly radiates of a peppery, clean masculinity.

Vetivér Tonka is an incredibly elegant fragrance. Discreet, yet as sharp as a meticulously tailored grey flannel suit. There are similarities to some of Ellenas’ other work, especially Terre d’ Hermès, but I strongly prefer the crisp and straight forward composition of VT. Liquid sophistication.

Ambre Narguilé: This is gourmand done right. Ambre Narguilé perfectly balances “edible” notes with thought and moderation. The end result is best described as a classy and highly wearable cinnamon apple pie. Boss Bottled from Hugo Boss is a bit in this direction but ultimately ventures into synthetic mess. AN instead excels in its ambition of transparent contemporary oriental with sweet honey, creamy vanilla and smoky dried fruits.

Official notes include benzoin, labdanum, musk, vanilla, caramel, honey, sugared tonka bean, grilled sesame seeds, cinnamon, rum, coumarine and white orchids. Rich, dense and opulent – but never too much. Amazing longevity and decent sillage on this one.

Poivre Samarcande: In some ways Poivre Samarcande feels like a tribute to classic Eau d'Hermès. They definitely share the same “dirty” yet refined vibe – most certainly thanks to cumin. At the same time PS is quite modern and not unlike some othercontemporary stuff out there - I suspect this is due to some usage of Iso-E Super.

For instance Poivre Samarcande is similar, to Bang by Marc Jacobs. Similar but vastly superior. I just love the dry, crackling black pepper and salty leather notes in this. Official notes include black pepper, Chili pepper, Oak, Cedar, Musk and Chinese Moss. Spicy, warm and slightly animalic.

Rose Ikebana: A stunningly bright take on rose. Ellena’s trade mark is instantly recognizable in Rose Ikebana that shares a strong resemblance with Eau de Pamplemousse Rose – especially with a sparkling grapefruit note – but also some similarities to the lovely tartness found in the Jardin-series. A natural, tangy rhubarb adds instant freshness to the dewey and gentle rose petals. The overall feeling is of a moist beautiful garden with plump fruit and lush greenery. Delicate, sheer and extremely wearable for men and women alike. Impossible to dislike. According to others longevity on my skin is far better than I perceived myself. Official notes include rose petals, peony, magnolia, pink peppercorns, grapefruit zest, green rhubarb, vanilla, honey, and black tea.

Paprika Brasil: Beautiful and original, Paprika Brasil is by far the most feminine in the range to my nose. Here dry, powdery and floral iris is paired with austere cedar wood. The result is a chillingly chic blend that I picture to be the perfect choice for formal galas or dinners. For women that is. PB is just too much femme fatale for me –its aroma immediately conjures up images of lipstick and expensive red stilettos in my mind. Official notes include pimento, clove and paprika Iris and green leaves Reseda, ember wood and “woody notes”.

Brin de réglisse: In many ways a departure from the rest of the series. Brin de réglisse is more direct and brutal than it’s siblings. The opening immediately has intense licorice and pungent lavender battling it out before settling into a mellow, creamy base of said notes. Reminds me of a slightly less complex but deeper version of Piguet´s Cravache. Fun but unfortunately very fleeting. Personally I think Eau de réglisse by Caron does this concept more effectively, with better staying power and way cheaper. Official notes include lavender, licorice, orange blossom, hay, incense, vanilla and leather.

Iris Ukioyé: Clean and pleasant iris fragrance. Somewhat more contemporary ambiance compared to Olivia Giacobetti’s masterpiece Hiris from 1999. Competent but ultimately unexciting compared to others in the range.

Vanille Galante: For a lack of better words I would describe this as an “organic” vanilla. Very far from the synthetic vanilla accords that are so commonplace in perfumery of today. Vanille Galant has a fleshy substance to it with some indolic notes. Very vivid and not sweet at all. Think of bitter and smoky vanilla pods together with blossoming orchids and pungent jasmine - original and cool. Floral, sharp and quite feminine.

Osmanthe Yunnan: Someone at Basenotes described this one perfectly as smoky, milky apricot tea. Osmanthe Yunnan is gentle and mild and features a toned down version of that peachy suede accord that is found in many of Serge Luten´s creations. On my skin OY wears a tad too weak - it just doesn’t really take off. Nevertheless a pleasant ride while it lasts. Official notes include: Yunan Tea, Orange, Freesia, Osmanthus, Apricot and Leather.

Year of Launch: 2004-2009
Gender Classification: All are unisex – Vetivér Tonka, Ambré Narguilé, Poivre Samarcande & Un brin de réglisse belong to the more masculine ones.
Longevity & Sillage: Great variations – moderate longevity & sillage as a whole with Ambré Narguilé being the big exception.
Overall rating: 8/10 for the series as a whole.

No More Than meets The Eye - part III: Acqua di Parma

2011-08-14T10:26:00.000-07:00

Italian luxe brand Acqua di Parmas' advertising follows the sharp Art Deco-design of their near iconic packaging. Aspirational images and models are put aside in favor of strong graphic character and flacon focus.

(All pictures courtesy of: www.parfumsdepub.net)

Speed Review: Lacoste (Original)

2011-08-08T07:16:00.000-07:00

Year of launch: 1984
Gender classification: Masculine
Perfumer: Unknown
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Lemon, citrus, menthol, clove, sandalwood
Reminiscent of: Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Monsieur de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate sillage, good longevity
Packaging & Design: Sporty, deep green glass flacon with white panels screaming Tennis!
5 adjectives: Soapy, mossy, clean, rugged, refreshing
Overall Rating: 7/10

Forgotten Gems Part V: Etro Heliotrope

2009-02-09T12:57:00.001-08:00

SUBTLE SUGAR RUSH. Heliotrope - a very nice, albeit understated, cologne from the Italian masters of eccentric paisley Etro, is often unfairly overlooked in the discussions about the great gourmands. This is the aroma of bitter sweet almonds on a bed of white flowers sprayed with caramel milk. Even though heliotrope notes have been quite widely used historically, this rendition adds beautiful layers of cherry and soft tobacco creating a sublime pastry like impression. This is not just pure marzipan.

As mentioned, sillage is not its forte, but this is hardly an issue as I suspect a strength increase would just make it overtly sweet and cloying. Also I was quite surprised to learn that this was released in 1989 as it comes across as much more contemporary and soft compared to what stuff generally smelled like then. A fact that further proves Heliotrope was ahead of the curve and probably has served as an inspiration for fragrances like Dior's Bois d'Argent, L'Artisan Parfumeur's Bois Farine and Cerutti Black.

Captivating, precious and gentle.

Overall Rating: 7/10

Speed Review: Lalique White

2009-02-02T11:28:00.000-08:00

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Masculine
Perfumer: Christine Nagel
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Lemon leaves, tamarind, bergamot, violet, white pepper, nutmeg, amber, cedar , musk
Reminiscent of: Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche, L'Eau par Kenzo pour Homme, Dior Homme Sport
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate sillage, average longevity
Packaging & Design: Broad shouldered matte white flacon, somewhat dissapointing given the brands prestigious history of crystal craftsmanship
5 adjectives: Contemporary, safe, citrusy, hesperidic, smooth
Overall rating: 6/10

Aramis - Bermuda Tonic

2009-01-26T11:24:00.000-08:00

PINEAPPLE EXPRESS. In the present cold and dark European winter, one's mind easily wanders away toward carefree summer days and dreams of a nice tropical vacation. Very light and breezy and not something for a cold climate or mindset - Bermuda Tonic from Estée Lauders Aramis-line is just what would suit such a day of relaxing in the sun.

This is basically a "resort fragrance", very Piña Colada-ish featuring a pleasant blend of bitter rhum, sweet coconut and juicy pineapples. The overall impression is very crisp with a lightly salty touch reminiscent of sea and wind. A slightly astringent lime remains troughout the development of the fragrance.

This is a tonic however and intentionally designed to be sprayed very liberally since it's quite weak- so beware of seriously fleeting character.

Closest sibling is Creed's Virgin Island Water and whilst the latter is definitely the better of the two, it's hardly worth the much steeper price.

To conclude, Bermuda Tonic is a good, fun and leisure fragragrance. In it's inviting packaging, it was a nice 2005 release of Lauder and a welcome strenghtening of their portfolio after some dissapointing launches.

Year of Launch: 2005
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Creed Virgin Island Water, Calvin Klein Obsession Night for Men, Jil Sander Sun

Longevity & Sillage: Both below average
Overall Rating: 6/1o

The Citrus Anatomy Part IV – Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée

2009-01-04T05:14:00.000-08:00

Jacques Polge’s flawless 1989 update of the classic Pour Monsieur is indeed stronger compared to the original, but above all of a superior craft. It feels considerably more modern, but not edgy in any way. Added to the wonderful initial blasts of various citrus fruits are clear notes of nutmeg, cardamom and something smelling slightly like coconut. The basenotes feature a sweet creaminess, an oriental vanilla not unlike the one found in numerous Guerlain perfumes, that is perfectly balanced with the by then fading spices and dry mossy heart.

Pour Monsieur Concentrée is actually more reminiscent of Dior´s Eau Sauvage than the original Pour Monsieur, the latter being a straightforward citrusy chypre while both PMC and Eau Sauvage transcend traditional categorization and have way more intangible compositions. In my experience the truly great citrus fragrances have at least one of two parameters: Superior, often natural smelling ingredients, like Eau de Rochas Pour Homme and Annick Goutal´s Eau de Hadrien, or a level of abstraction that makes them rise above the genre in general, like New York from Parfums de Nicolaï. This Chanel easily fulfills both those criteria. Comfortable and truly a class act.

Overall rating: 7/10

Burberry - Brit for Men

2008-12-29T03:28:00.000-08:00

A few mainstream designer houses have a fragrance portfolio that is unexpectedly impressive, producing progressive and quality stuff long after their clothes and overall aesthetic jumped the shark. A very good example is pre-Light Blue Dolce & Gabbana. Even though the designers themselves are somewhat of a sellout joke nowadays, licensing their names to pretty much anything and targeting teenagers with their tacky logo ridden garments, their perfume section is still going strong. From the tobacco heavy pour Homme via the musky amber bomb By trough to the pleasant citrus of D&G Masculine and the comforting woods of The One, Dolce & Gabbana fragrances are simply good.

Another case in point – Burberry. Even though Burberry still produces exclusive clothing and high quality luxury items, especially under the Prorsum label, the brand undoubtedly has been somewhat watered down the last decade. Similar to Tommy Hilfiger in the early 90´s, Burberrys fell for the temptation of catering to logo loving casuals and football hooligans, thus making the brand associations less appealing for the trench coat- and luxury bag buyers. Under the excellent supervision of Christopher Bailey they are back on track though, and the perfume side is strong as ever, Brit for Men being an excellent illustration. Other high-quality Burberry fragrances include the violety sweet Touch, the boozy green London and the highly versatile minty fresh Burberry for Men.

Many are a bit underwhelmed when first sampling Brit. And sure, this is not a sillage monster or Joop! competitor. Instead, Brit is a very cleverly updated modern oriental. It´s sensual and soft and clearly designed to be enjoyed by a loved one close to your skin. Like many L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances, Brit sports a remarkable longevity though; the powdery sweetness lingers subtly for hours.

An immediate association for me is gingerbread, the Swedish Christmas kind with plenty of cardamom. Other notes mingling happily together with the sharp ginger include spicy nutmeg and green zesty mandarins. The heart notes are dominated by a bold rose, obviously a conscious choice of perfumer Antoine Maisondieu. Rose, along with lavender the most characteristically English of notes, was of course a must ingredient to incorporate in this national homage.

National references aside, Brit also serves as a bridge between traditional perfumery and modern. Carelessly blending time honored barbershop tradition with cheeky synthetic accords. The end result is truly greater than the sum of its parts. Maisondieu has created the ideal Hammam Bouquet of the 21: st century. Playful, dandyish and delicate.

Year of Launch: 2004
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Boucheron Jaïpur, Paloma Picasso Minotaure, Chanel Allure Homme
Longevity & Sillage: Limited output, above average longevity
Overall Rating: 8/1o

Speed Review: Annick Goutal - Musc Nomade

2008-12-27T14:35:00.001-08:00

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Unisex
Perfumer: Camille Goutal & Isabelle Doyen
Availability: In production
Dominant notes: Musks, rose, agarwood, angelica root, ambrette seed, Bombay wood, Tonka bean
Reminiscent of: Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne, Montale Roses Musk
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate sillage, decent longevity
Packaging & Design: Standard Goutal flacon with the Les Orientalistes graphic, Musc Nomade is the fourth in the series
5 adjectives: Minimalist, intimate, rosey, resinous, smooth

Overall rating: 6/10

Oscar de la Renta - Pour Lui

2008-12-25T02:45:00.000-08:00

Oscar de la Renta’s signature scent from 1981 is a powerful and heady floral chypre for men. With massive output typical for 80´s fragrances in general, it firmly lands in the same category as Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme and Floris Elite. This one is vastly superior though, especially compared to the latter brit.

It never takes the floral part too far and settles down to a nice powdery, musk base. But before hitting the base notes you´re in for one generous trip. Arid spices and herbs like carnation, geranium, oakmoss, lavender and cinnamon are embraced by elegant but strong incense. Further notes of vetiver, leather and gloomy florals are anchored by sturdy aldehydes. The aldehydic character makes the whole composition come across a bit like a masculine equivalent of Chanel´s ultra classic No 5.

Pour Lui’s quiet brilliance lies in combining all these diverse ingredients and dissonant notes and coming out on top with a smooth, refined, slightly abstract and mysterious blend.

Very far from the fresh scents of today, in small doses Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui is the perfect complement to a good dark suit. Formal, dry, unique and dense.

Year of Launch: 1981

Gender Classification: Masculine

Reminiscent of: Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme, Floris Elite, Balenciaga Ho Hang Club, Estée Lauder Aramis, Chanel Antaeus, Trussardi Uomo

Longevity & Sillage: Both stellar
Overall Rating: 6/1o

Lorenzo Villoresi - Teint de Neige

2008-12-15T11:28:00.000-08:00

The colour of snow is white, as is the colour of powder. And surely Teint de Neige is one of the most powdery fragrances ever created. The description even reads: "The essence of perfumed powders".

This is a somewhat demanding fragrance, make no mistake about it. Some will unquestionably find it too nostalgic, reminiscent of "old things" like their grand mothers make up cabinet or boudoirs in general. Personally I can't wear it myself either, mainly due to the strong tonka bean in the basenotes that doesn't sit well on my skin. But what a fine piece of perfumery it is.

Teint de Neige is like a sleigh ride through beautiful snow clad landscapes. Impressions of jasmin and rose create a profound floral ambiance that attractively transcends into a soft foundation of heliotrope with its characteristically almond like gentle aroma. The slightly astringent quality of ylang ylang prevents it from going too sugary and gives it just a touch of sharpness making the composition even more interesting. After many hours the progression finally settles in creamy sweet musks and a clean talc accord.

If you belong to the people who can pull this Villoresi off, then you are in for a very special treat. Either way, this masterful, cloudy and complex blend deserves some serious respect.

Year of Launch: 2000
Gender Classification: Unisex
Reminiscent of: Lorenzo Villoresi Musk, Etro Heliotrope
Longevity & Sillage: Both well above average
Overall Rating: 8/1o

Speed Review: Gianfranco Ferré - Bergamotto Marino

2008-12-11T09:05:00.000-08:00

Year of Launch: 2006

Gender Classification: Unisex

Perfumer: Pierre Bourdon

Availability: In Production

Dominant notes: Bergamot, jasmine, oakmoss, seaweed black currant, musk, orange blossom

Reminiscent of: Diesel Fuel for Life Pour Homme

Longevity & Sillage: Both slightly above average

Packaging & Design: Pretty and classic round glass flacon, but the overall design is just a bit too similar to Frederic Malle's range that was introduced years before...

5 adjectives: Clean, refreshing, gentle, floral, soapy

Overall rating: 7/10

Jean-Paul Gaultier - Fleur du Male

2008-12-03T11:14:00.000-08:00

An excellent modern and oriental take on orange blossom, Fleur du Male also has that classic Gaultier level of exuberance and lavishness. Therefore perhaps not best suited for high level board meetings or office use. Instead, wear this to a fun summer night out with good friends.

Although it certainly shares some basenotes with the original, FdM has plenty of merit of it's own. It's warm and spicy but also has a certain "cool" that makes it perfectly wearable in hot weather. Less projection than Le Male, but equally stellar longevity, stays on your skin until you wash it off.

A contemporary, eccentric and self confident neroli for urban hipsters - good stuff.

Year of Launch: 2007
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Christian Dior Fahrenheit 32, Jean-Paul Gaultier Le male

Longevity & Sillage: Above average sillage, excellent staying power

Overall Rating: 7/1o

Decades of Decadence Part I: Creed Acier Aluminium

2008-11-27T02:10:00.000-08:00

The art of high perfumery has always been about creating emotions and the ability of great noses to capture different aspirations and atmospheres in their creations. From the Italian renaissance and the French courts through to distinguished British barbershops and avant-garde maverick noses, the great perfumers have always strived for their blends to evoke a certain mood or sensation.

Apart from romantic, sporty, fresh, or dreamy impressions, in this section - Decades of Decadence - I'm going to focus on debauchery and self indulgence... Or rather the fragrances from the last few decades that bring these adjectives to mind.

The French have, like in so many other facets of perfumery, always had an edge in this genre. From Guerlain's civet loaded Mouchoir de Monsieur and Jicky to Etat Libre D’Orange's entire catalog, French houses have been the masters of exploring the gritty and more sinister sides of olfactory creation. First out therefore, a ravishing blend from Parisian Creed, released in 1973 - Acier Aluminium.

In my initial review of Acier Aluminium on Basenotes (http://www.basenotes.net/ID26120039.html) I wrote that the visual representation of this elixir is the masked orgy scenes in Stanley Kubrick's Eyes Wide Shut. And this truly is the type of setting that comes to mind when smelling this pagan juice.

It's very different from most contemporary offerings from Creed. Far from the safe, clean virtues of for instance Erolfa or Millesime Imperiál, Acier Aluminium projects a sinful image in an absolutely intoxicating way.

The unorthodox blend of raw ambergris, resins and sweet fruits with a slight lemony edge create a voluptuous, smouldering and massive impression. This is not one for the office... There is also a metallic edge to the scent, slightly reminiscent of the one found in Caron's Anarchiste, but without the nauseating bits of the latter.

Longevity and sillage are well above average, which is unusual for Creed to begin with and especially in the Eau de Toilette format.

To conclude, Acier Aluminium is both a testimony to the brilliance of earlier Creed creations, Ambre Canelle and Orange Spice also come to mind, but first and foremost it's one of the premier carnal fragrances of the last decades. Corruption extraordinaire.

Overall Rating: 8/10

Forgotten Gems Part IV: Decléor Un Air de Java

2008-11-23T05:45:00.000-08:00

Decléors sadly overlooked Un Air de Java was created by the brilliant Pierre Bourdon in the year 2000. Its closest relative is without a doubt Chanel's Platinum Egoïste, both sharing a solid base of dry woods with a slightly charred character. This smoky and arid disposition firmly places the fragrance in autumn and winter wear territory.

Apart from the scorched notes there's a strong mossy and green vibe present, which can be attributed to black currant leaves and oak moss mingling in a perfect balance. There's a mild floral touch as well, with some soft violet and jasmine.

Overall a beautiful woody chypre, managing to combine pungent individual notes in an understated and elegant manner. Truly a forgotten gem.

Overall rating: 7/10

Speed Review: Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme

2008-11-19T09:32:00.000-08:00

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Masculine
Perfumer: Frida Giannini
Availability: In Production
Dominant notes: Bergamot, violet, jasmine, elemi, something reminiscent of pear
Reminiscent of: Christian Dior Higher, Gant Indigo
Longevity & Sillage: Both below average
Packaging & Design: Heavy, well done rectangular flacon with horse bit detailing
5 adjectives: Fresh, redundant, synthetic, flat, fruity
Overall rating: 4/10

Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido - Un Bois Vanille

2008-11-07T01:16:00.000-08:00

Insanely sweet, but equally eccentric and cool, this Serge Lutens perfume isn't really something I'd wear myself. At the same time it is very hard not to appreciate the fun and joy that is so evident to have been part in the making of Un Bois Vanille.

I get a carefree "resort" vibe from it, probably due to a strong accord reminiscent of coconut. The vanilla is special on it's own, kind of "toasted" and with some bitterness - like the real pods. But together with the liquorice, sandalwood and sugary notes it transcends classic vanilla interpretations into something completely different - the quintessence of opulence.

If you're an obsessive vanilla fan and can handle this extreme gourmand on your skin - then you might find a party friend for life. Hedonistic, cocky and fun.

Year of Launch: 2003

Gender Classification: Unisex

Reminiscent of: Coty Raw Vanilla, Hugo Boss Boss Bottled

Longevity & Sillage: Both well above average

Overall Rating: 6/1o

No More Than Meets the Eye part II - Giorgio Armani

2008-11-02T04:52:00.000-08:00

In the second part of No More Than Meets The Eye, a closer look at the Italian maestro of casual elegance - Giorgio Armani. In many ways the trend of forcedly fresh aquatics for men was benchmarked by Armani's Acqua di Giò pour Homme in 1996. As much as I do not like the fragrance myself, it without a doubt played a central part in the development of the world of perfume. As this style now, finally, is fading and oriental and woody launches are becoming more common again, one can look back at this legacy with almost sentimental feelings. Further, in the aquatic and fresh category Acqua di Giò to this day remains a complex and well crafted fragrance at the top of its group.

Visually Armani fragrance ads have kept a resolute image throughout the decades, portraying the soft and sensual aesthetic regularly found in the designers clothes.

(All pictures courtesy of: www.parfumsdepub.net)

Prada - Infusion d'Homme

2008-10-30T03:13:00.000-07:00

As the name and packaging for Prada's new Infusion d'Homme indicates, this is less of a standalone fragrance and more a variation of last years stellar Infusion d'Iris. Therein lays its problem as well. Although Infusion d'Homme is infinitely more interesting than the lion's share of new mainstream launches, this release doesn't deliever too much originality or excitement in the light of its predecessor.

Fragrance wise the cedar wood has been significantly amped up and together with the beautiful incense and iris notes it creates a slightly smoky impression. This woody edge successfully puts the scent more in masculine territory compared to the highly unisex forerunner. With this added coarseness, the ambery smoothness of the original unfortunately gets lost though. The overall impression is somewhat more blunt and one dimensional.

The official notes are the same as for Infusion d'Iris but apparently in a different concentration: mandarin, orange, neroli, iris, galbanum, cedar, vetiver, benzoin and frankincense.

All in all Infusion d'Homme is a very good fragrance, sturdily continuing the current trend of iris in fragrances, like Dior's Homme, The Different Company's Bois d'Iris and L'Artisan Parfumeur's Dzongkha. However, personally I strongly prefer the soapy and softer touch of the first "version" in this fine series. Either way Prada continues building an impressive perfume portfolio.

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Prada Infusion d'Iris, Dior Homme, Christian Lacroix Tumulte Pour Homme
Longevity & Sillage: Decent output, above average longevity
Overall Rating: 7/1o

Rawhide! The Great Leathers Part II: Helmut Lang - Cuiron

2008-10-29T01:48:00.000-07:00

I wanna start by saying that the Cuiron flacon together with the Kiehl's Musk one are some of the finest ones in the fragrance world according to my humble taste. These no nonsense, clean apothecary style bottles are what great elixirs should be contained in - old school greatness.

It doesn't hurt that the fragrance itself is excellent also. A contemporary but rougher take on the classic leathers. This time again with a standard orange and neroli opening, but also some sweet plum giving it an almost raisinlike dimension clearly setting it apart.

The fragrance doesn't evolve too much, it stays pretty linear and is quite heavy on the lovely hide-fumes. I don't think this is unisex in the same way as Cuir de Russie or Peau d'Espagne. Rather it conjures up images of stylized bad boy bikers like Marlon Brando in the Wild One. To conclude, this Helmut Lang clearly is a macho, hairy chested contribution to the world of leather scents. And a great one at that.

Overall Rating: 8/10

The Citrus Anatomy Part III - Hugo Boss Baldessarini Eau de Cologne

2008-10-22T09:22:00.001-07:00

Perhaps not a citrus fragrance per se, the original Baldessarini from Hugo Boss was released in 2002. What we have here is an excellent, modern Eau de Cologne leaning towards the oriental side. Like most colognes the fleeting character unfortunately remains.

The composition is basically a mature blend of tobacco and sugared bitter orange peels. The citrus has a very pronounced bitterness that works great with the complementing subtle mint notes and prevents the sweet base from becoming too much.

A very elegant and formal fragrance that you can't really go wrong with. But do try to score the concentrated version since the ordinary escapes your skin all too soon. Also check out S.T. Dupont's underated Noir for something quite similar with better longevity.

Overall Rating: 7/10

Cartier - Roadster

2008-10-20T09:38:00.001-07:00

Roadster is the first male fragrance from Cartier in almost a decade and like the earlier Santos and Pasha it takes its name from one of their prestige watch collections.

Many adjectives could be used of this new scent, but ingratiating is definitely not one of them. It is rare to sample something this austere nowadays from large, mainstream fragrance makers. Roadster is simply put a demanding fragrance.

After a harsh beginning with strong notes of vetiver and herbs, we are treated to a consistent cedar wood so dry it's on the verge of self igniting. This paired with a burly mint note makes for a macho aura with a heavy, smoky presence.

Unfortunately it doesn't develop very much from there and instead of a modern and nice update of old 80´s classics, like the excellent Narcisso Rodriguez For Him, it comes across as a bit flat and one dimensional. Kudos to Cartier though for releasing something this far from politically correct. Maybe it will appeal to some. Also, the flacon is original and well made with nicely incorporated design references to the range of exclusive time pieces.

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Masculine

Reminiscent of: Lagerfeld Man, Gucci Pour Homme
Longevity & Sillage: Good output, above average longevity

Overall Rating: 5/10

Forgotten Gems Part III - Paloma Picasso Minotaure

2008-10-19T01:32:00.000-07:00

Very 1990's in the overall feel, this forgotten gem along with Calvin Klein´s Eternity for Men was one of the signature scents of that decade for me. Minotaure achieved huge sales in Europe, especially considering the small Picasso brand, but is very rare to find nowadays apart from online stores.

A strong juice, heavy on vanilla, orange blossom and jasmine. Instantly recognizeable and somewhat ambigous, courtesy of the sharp florals. Smooth leathery base with a mellow sweetness that keeps delievering throughout the day. The closest scent is without a doubt Roma by Laura Biagiotti, but Minotaure is the better of the two, at least for me. Special and cool, hopefully Minotaure won't be forgotten forever.

Overall rating: 7/10

Speed Review: Kenzo Power

2008-10-08T06:59:00.000-07:00

Year of Launch: 2008

Gender Classification: Masculine

Perfumer: Olivier Polge

Availability: In Production

Dominant notes: Bergamot, coriander, iris, cedar wood

Reminiscent of: Givenchy Insénse

Longevity & Sillage: Both slightly below average

Packaging & Design: Heavy, superb silver coated flacon in the style of japanese saké bottles, excellent finish and detailing

5 adjectives: Floral, abstract, powdery, weak, ambigous

Overall rating: 6/10

Crabtree & Evelyn - Sienna

2008-10-05T04:44:00.000-07:00

Crabtree & Evelyns Sienna from 1990 is an aromatic and ambery melange that leaves the wearer with a perfect old school trail. It is similar to rugged classics like Calvin Klein Obsession for men and Devin from Aramis, but with a bit more polish and elegance. It sports a soapy, clean aura often found in old barbershop colognes and the pronounced cinnamon note places it firmly in autumn and winter wear territory.

Overall Sienna is a spicy, warm and comforting juice - not terribly original but with great versatility instead. Just as suitable for carefree sunday loungeing as for high level board meetings.

Year of Launch: 1990
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Calvin Klein Obsession for men, Aramis Devin, Halston Z14
Longevity & Sillage: Great output, moderate longevity
Overall Rating: 6/10

Bond No.9 - Andy Warhol Lexington Avenue

2008-09-28T05:19:00.000-07:00

Lexington Avenue from Bond No.9 is the third collaboration with the Andy Warhol foundation, the previous two releases being Silver Factory and Union Square. This most recent fragrant instalment continues in the fun and hedonistic spirit associated with Warhol's art and lifestyle.

Lexington Avenue opens with an initial blast of fennel making the first impression a bit opaque. From its liquorice-like, spicy and considerably woody top, the fragrance progresses smoothly trough several phases. In the end the overall impression is quite suede-like. No harsh leather, but delicate suede with subtle floral elements - almost abstract.

There's a resemblance to Serge Lutens's Daim Blond, especially in the heart notes. The suede accord mingling with cardamom and something reminiscent of apricot kernels can be found in both. However Lexington Avenue takes a more gourmand route, albeit a moderate one. Roasted almonds add a coffee like touch, Italian orris root provides depth while créme brulee sweetens the deal and adds some edge.

However, the drydown is where this fragrance really shines. The use of patchouli is brilliant. Removed of all it's naturally earthy sharpness it beautifully anchors the composition along with a more traditional rendition of sandalwood. The end result - contemporary and unique. The official pyramid further includes notes of blue cypress, pink peony and pimento berry.

The eye catching flacon with its colourful stilettos - a reference to Warhol's early days as an illustrator of among other things vibrant shoes - only partly represents the content. Although vivacious and somewhat playful, Lexington Avenue is a very soft and tender perfume, even sensual. Like many L'Artisan Parfumeur fragrances, it stays close to the skin, but with very good longevity. To conclude, Bond No. 9 has created a modern and well behaved gourmand perfect for romantic occasions.

Year of Launch: 2008

Gender Classification: Feminine, but wearable for basically anyone
Reminiscent of: Serge Lutens Daim Blond, Caron Eau de Reglisse
Longevity & Sillage: Above average longevity, subtle sillage

Overall rating: 7/10

Rawhide! The Great Leathers Part I: Santa Maria Novella - Nostalgia

2008-09-28T05:04:00.001-07:00

The ability to recreate the pungent and characteristic aroma of leather in perfumery dates back several centuries and involves many great houses and perfumers. In this section Rawhide! The Great Leathers I'll be taking a closer look at some of the most important contributions in the genre.

Leather fragrances diverge hugely, one of the reasons being that leather itself can't be distilled but needs to be recreated in an abstract way through other components. Therefore there are as disparate renditions as Truefitt & Hill's Spanish Leather from 1830 which sports a soapy and sweet tone, Helmut Lang's contemporary Cuiron with its slightly fruity approach and Chanel's very animalic Cuir de Russie.

But first out a more modern take from ancient Italian monastery, herbarium and fragrance maker Santa Maria Novella. Nostalgia is a tribute to automobiles and the aesthetics of early 20th century motoring. The overall impression is however something very avant-garde, especially due to the turbulent opening notes of motor grease and sharp petroleum. This weird bit fades pretty rapidly, making way for something conjuring up images of the majestic leather interior of a Roll's Royce Phantom or vintage Bentley.

In some ways it resembles the old leathers like Knize Ten and even Caron's Tabac Blond, it's closest relative though has to be Bulgari Black, but Nostalgia is even more progressive. Something very untypical for being a Santa Maria Novella fragrance - after all we're talking about a house with several centuries of heritage. In no way does Nostalgia put that legacy to shame, quite on the contrary- this is probably their best launch so far and a great addition to the field.

Overall Rating: 7/10

The Citrus Anatomy Part II - Floris Pink Grapefruit

2008-09-17T10:11:00.000-07:00

In the further exploration of this great category of fragrances time has come to esteemed British house Floris.

Their Pink Grapefruit from 2004 is brilliant in its naive simplicity. A super clean, fizzy cologne based on the lovely aroma of freshly squeezed pink grapefruits. The juicy pulp accord is nicely supplemented by a light touch of the white grapefruit blossom. Minimalism at it's finest.

Regarding it's longevity I don't find it half as bad as many say, easily lasts 4-6 hours, which is a lot considering it's carefree citrus anatomy. One of the best, effortless feelgood juices out there - sparkling and playful ingenuity. I don't see how anyone could dislike this.

Overall Rating: 7/10

Montale - Aoud Lime

2008-09-15T10:49:00.001-07:00

Aoud Lime is one of those fragrances that hardly leaves anyone neutral. This Montale, like most others from this French house, is a intense and somewhat aggressive fragrance with an exuberant personality. For the record, my experience with oud or agarwood was somewhat limited before trying this line, but I certainly enjoyed it in Yves Saint Laurent's M7.

After sampling a few of the oud based Montales, M7 seems to be true enough to the nature of this pungent wood. But despite their slight resemblance, Aoud Lime, is something completely different. The heady, oily citrus combined with saffron and the charred, smoky and semi-sweet wood create a dry, herbaceous and medicinal aura. The dryness is further accentuated by iris and aromatic sandalwood. The effect of the notes mingling together make for a dusty, romantic impression, but one that smells very clean at the same time - puzzling and dissonant in a good way. Also the sillage is a killer - this will take over a small room in no time, so be gentle on the trigger.

The main difference compared to other Montale agarwood fragrances is that Aoud Lime lacks the eccentric floral elements that make so many of the others unwearable for me. There is some rose lurking in there, but that strong middle eastern floral sensation is not present at all. Therefore Aoud Lime is by far my favourite in this range. A sharp, dense and unique perfume.

Year of Launch: 2006
Gender Classification: Unisex
Reminiscent of: Yves Saint Laurent M7, L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses

Longevity & Sillage: Both nuclear
Overall rating: 7/10

Paco Rabanne - 1 Million

2008-09-11T08:04:00.000-07:00

Paco Rabanne fragrances have had a certain edge compared to other mainstream designer offerings during the last two decades: from the excellent XS pour Homme - which many consider Creed's Himalaya to be a copy of, the milky, avant-garde but disappointing Ultraviolet Man to the overlooked but decent crisp lavender of Eau de Paco Rabanne pour Homme. Not always with completely successful results, this house at least has made an effort to put out original stuff.

The most recent masculine launch, 1 million, is no exception. Apparently the perfume - and obviously the flacon, was inspired by Paco Rabanne's famous metallic fashions. The fragrance is however not particularly metallic. Instead, 1 Million is a very modern take on leather.

The composition strikes me as very simple, but quite effective and interesting - not something I remember to really have experienced before. The topnotes are dominated by a beautiful blood orange that makes way for some cinnamon, mint and subtle rose. The drydown, which arrives way too quickly, is an attractive light leather - more suede cloth than biker jacket. The overall impression of 1 Million is very positive, intensely wearable and just right in its contemporary vision.

However there are two slight problems... First of all: the bottle... What were they thinking? The thing looks like a bar of gold from Uncle Scrooges Duckburg mansion. The reference to Mr. Rabannes love for incorporating metal in his designs was perfectly done in 1969's Calandre, this packaging is just beyond tacky.

The bigger issue though is the extremely short longevity of the fragrance. Fading from the skin in less than two hours ruins a bit of an otherwise great experience. Hopefully a concentrated version will follow. Either way 1 Million is a very nice surprise and will hopefully do well.

Year of Launch: 2008

Gender Classification: Masculine

Reminiscent of: Jean Luc Amsler Privé, Hugo Boss Baldessarini

Longevity & Sillage: Both unfortunately below average

Overall rating: 7/10

Forgotten Gems Part II - Joop! Nightflight

2008-09-07T03:40:00.000-07:00

In the continuing quest for forgotten gems it's time to turn our eyes to German designer Wolfgang Joop and his excellent sophomore effort in the masculine fragrance department. Decadent, original and still readily available, Nightflight from 1992 never really achieved major success - especially compared to it's big bad predecessor in the red bottle...

It's a pleasure to wear this fresh but powerful blend that is full with the confidence of the early nineties. Launched before the grunge era and recession, Nightflight definitely has more in common with Wall Streets' Gordon Gekko than Nirvana or Soundgarden.

Composition wise it's a predecessor to Chanel's Allure Pour Homme - both with strong tonka basenotes, but Nightflight sports plenty of character of it's own. There's a strong tropical theme throughout the development, mainly attributable to pineapple mingling with sweet vanilla. A pungent coriander, reminiscent of the one found in Rochas Aquaman, together with breezy floral notes add some eccentricity before the slightly synthetic but smooth and pleasant sandalwood takes over the final hours of the drydown.

Nightflight is a great alternative to the original Joop! Homme, with the same innovative and extroverted vibe, but without all the cloying bits.

Overall rating: 7/10

Speed Review: Dsquared2 - He Wood

2008-09-05T04:55:00.001-07:00

Year of Launch: 2007
Gender Classification: Masculine
Availability: In Production
Dominant notes: Musk, violet leaves, vetiver, cedarwood.
Reminiscent of: Geoffrey Beane Grey Flannel, Narcisso Rodriguez For Him, Kenzo Air
Longevity & Sillage: Both slightly below average
Packaging & Design: Well made smoked glass flacon with wooden frame
5 adjectives: Minimalist, cedar heavy, contemporary, clean, ozonic
Overall rating: 6/10

Guerlain - Homme

2008-09-02T05:24:00.001-07:00

Thierry Wasser, Guerlains new in house perfumer, surely has a daunting challenge ahead of him. To succesfully take this ancient bastion of traditional perfumery into the new millenium while respecting the rich heritage and at the same time branching out into the mainstream with more modern and accessible products will be very hard. To say the least. Hopefully Mr Wassers surname isn't indicative of what we can expect fragrance wise.

Thankfully watered down is not in any way a main characteristic of the brand new Homme. Unfortunately original isn't either. Upon application it immediately reminded me of Thierry Mugler's B*Men. A similarity that remains troughout much of progression of the scent. Rhubarb is a common note in both, but they also share a strong and sweet woody base with accents of licorice. However Homme is significantly fresher with some pleasant fizziness and mint - something described by Guerlain as a Mojito Accord.

Overall Homme is a well crafted modern fragrance that will probably do well. But as always, it is impossible not to employ a relativistic approach in this type of evaluations. And in the light of Guerlains proud history this will be remembered as just an okay but redundant try of adapting to the times. Which in my mind should be handled more responsibly than with this release. Minus points also for the flacon that feels a bit cheap in reality...

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Thierry Mugler B*Men, Caron Eau de Reglisse
Longevity & Sillage: Good longevity, subtle sillage
Overall rating: 6/10

No More Than Meets the Eye part I - Guerlain

2008-08-28T02:12:00.000-07:00

Advertising has been an essential element of the perfume world since the early 1900: s. After all it is the most direct way for the makers to convey their vision of what a particular fragrance represents, or perhaps more accurately - what they want it to represent.

Visually strong and original campaigns have elevated brands for ages. Examples that instantly come to mind are Calvin Klein's black and white photo ads for Eternity featuring Christy Turlington, an androgynous Kate Moss for One from the same designer, Davidoff's sporty and maritime ads for Cool Water, Dior's cartoon sailor for Eau Sauvage and Chanel's shadow boxer for Platinum Egoïste just to name a few.

Some ads have gotten attention through controversy instead, for instance full frontal nudity like Tom Fords M7 campaign for Yves Saint Laurent. Either way advertising is imperative in today's competitive fragrance market, and fundamental for setting the general mood and ambiance regarding a launch and communicating the preferred image and aesthetics of the creator.

In this section, No More Than Meets the Eye, I'll be looking closer at individual houses and designers and their visual communication through the ages by a selection of their hallmark ads and vintage artwork. First out epic French masters Guerlain:

All pictures courtesy of: http://www.parfumdepub.net/

Versace - L'Homme

2008-08-26T07:17:00.000-07:00

Versace´s L'Homme from the mid-eighties really epitomizes how brilliant mainstream designer fragrances once were. This is so well blended that it is hard to pinpoint the individual notes.

It does start with some sharp citrus and aromatic basil, eventually settling down to a semi-sweet, mossy, herbal and highly masculine base. The topnotes are slightly dissonant, astringent almost, immediately catching ones attention. I find this quality very typical of italian perfumery, often employed by for instance Santa Maria Novella and Lorenzo Villoresi. I enjoy this phase of L'Homme , but I can also understand that some have been discouraged by this particular bit. This herbaceuousness quickly transcends into total smoothness though.

The fragrance lasts forever and the progression is flawless, with each hour a new, great nuance of the scent is revealed. L'Homme slightly reminds me of Dunhill Edition, but less sweet and superior overall. The use of tobacco plays an important role in L'Homme like in other Versace fragrances such as The Dreamer and Versace Man, adding to it's perfect roundness and comforting, luxurious personality.

Balanced, full of character, subtle yet decisive - this is bottled elegance. And, most impressively, it does not smell dated at all.

Year of Launch: 1984

Gender Classification: Masculine

Reminiscent of: Dunhill Edition, Aramis, Drakkar Noir

Longevity & Sillage: Both stellar

Overall rating: 8/10

Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido - Gris Clair

2008-08-23T02:42:00.000-07:00

Extremely different from most Lutens scents, Gris Clair is somewhat brutal, quite one dimensional and very masculine. It definitely breaks the mould regarding what we've come to expect from this house. Neither ambiguous or an oriental, candied, fruit-honeyed-sweetness-meltdown. Instead Gris Clair is a modern, sharp and quite dark take on one of the most classic notes in perfumery - lavender.

The lavender has a clear metallic edge to it that is very special - reminds me a bit of the small spice sachets that grandma had lying around drawers with linen. But it´s also easy to argue that Gris Clair in fact is a stronge move toward the mainstream. It´s miles less original than most Lutens fragrances, and elements of it are extremely reminiscent of widely available stuff like Lanvin L´Homme or Rocabar from Hermès. Perhaps this is the route many niche houses will be taking? At least Fredric Malle´s Outrageous and some of the latest L'Artisans seem to indicate such a development.

To conclude, Gris Clair is a cool and macho spiced juice with some serious bite. Mellow and subtle it is not, but an accessible lavender that'll work great in a professional business environment assuming it is applied with moderation. Crisp and formal, a nice fragrance on it´s own but only okay granted its maker and niche status.

Year of Launch: 2006
Gender Classification: Unisex
Reminiscent of: Roberto Cavalli Black, Hermès Rocabar, Moschino Uomo, Lancome Hypnose Homme
Longevity & Sillage: Both well above average
Overall rating: 6/10

Speed Review: Davidoff - Adventure

2008-08-22T07:14:00.000-07:00

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Masculine
Availability: In Production
Dominant notes: Mandarin, bergamot, black sesame, pimento, cedar, vetiver, white musk
Reminiscent of: Paul Smith London, Giorgio Armani Code, John Varvatos
Longevity & Sillage: Subtle, muted sillage, above average longevity
Packaging & Design: Good looking solid glass flacon with steel top and faceted cap, simple and a bit cheap looking brown carton
5 adjectives: Casual, warm, coco nutty, spicy, safe
Overall rating: 6/10

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Dzongkha

2008-08-22T05:23:00.000-07:00

2006 saw the release of the excellent Dzongkha from fab french "niche-sters" L'Artisan Parfumeur. After a few so and so fragrances, especially the austere, stiff and boringly woody Timbuktu, this house was right back on track with Fou d'absinthe and this lovely iris elixir.

By no means an instant crowdpleaser, Dzongkha is an extremely dry and somewhat demanding scent. A stunning pale iris opens the blend that progresses into deep spices, tea and muted smoke. All notes with significant dryness as their common denominator. The drydown, that lingers forever, is a woodsy leather with subtle incense - truly exotic.

It is a very evocative blend - romantic as in breathtaking nature and stunning vistas. Dzongkha sports a mellow calm without the slightest hint of superficiality. Give this a one a serious try, and don´t let a perplexing first impression scare you of. For those willing to give this eau de toilette some time, chances are it´ll be a very rewarding experience. Simply superb.

Year of Launch: 2006
Gender Classification: Unisex
Reminiscent of: The Different Company Bois D'Iris, Dior Homme, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist
Longevity & Sillage: Like many L'Artisan fragrances Dzongkha has a limited output but very good staying power.
Overall rating: 7/10

Forgotten Gems Part I - Trophée Lancôme

2008-08-19T02:30:00.000-07:00

In this section I’m going to be looking a little closer at the forgotten gems of the fragrance world. Not necessarily discontinued, but overlooked or perhaps just drowned out in the ever increasing new releases of each year. Our first subject is the brilliant Trophée

by Lancôme.

With it's background firmly rooted in sport, The Trophée Lancôme was a professional golf tournament which was staged in France from 1970 to 2003, Trophée was launched in 1982. The original flacon, paying hommage to the tournament, is brilliantly quirky in that decadent 80´s way and excellently representing it's content.

The fragrance itself is best described as a classic green chypre. The standard citrus opening is followed by a distinct lavender and jasmin which eventually settle into a generally herbal base with strong woods. Overall impression is herbaceous, confident, grassy and slightly spicy. An instant head turner with it's masculine sillage. Official notes are: Lemon, Basil, Lime, Petitgrain, Patchouli, Bay, Cedar, Jasmine, Musk, Amber, Labdanum and Tonka.

Among it's contemporary peers I'd say Frederic Malle's Bigarade Concentrée comes the closest. But as much as I enjoy that one, Trophée is simply superior both in terms of complexity and output.

Apparently Lancôme relaunched Trophée in 2002 after a few years of discontinuation. I have not yet tried the recent edition, but let's hope that the new and boring standard bottle isn't an indication that the formula has been watered down or tampered with in any way... The rich mossiness of the original deserves to find its new fans unaltered.

Overall rating: 8/10

Penhaligon's- Hammam Bouquet

2008-08-18T03:53:00.000-07:00

I never thought of rose as a particularly feminine smell. If you smell the actual flower in a dewy garden it smells very genderless to my nose, just a nice, mild and fresh aroma. I think it's the extremely synthetic rose in tacky mass market fragrances of the last decade that has tarnished the reputation of this beatiful, floral component. The rose found in Geo F Trumper's ancient Rose Shaving Cream for instance smells very gentle and natural. The same can be said for Comme de Garcons Red Series Rose.

So, with this in mind, I was never afraid or worried about the strong rose element when I finally got around to sample Hammam Bouquet. After all, this eau de toilette was released over a century ago.

Hammam Bouquet does definitely not disappoint in conveying a flawless image of the quitessential english dandy. Everything from the elegant, little bow tied flacon to the theme of interpreting the sumptuos turkish bath culture trough a british, dry and more discreet perspective makes Hammam Bouquet a little bottle of colonial and imperialistic history. The fragrance also serves as an interesting cultural, historical and social example in terms of gender perceptions linked to olfaction. Floral smells such as rose and jasmin are still not attributed to femininity in the Middle East in the same way as in the western hemisphere. And looking at the rich history of traditional barbershop brands like D.R. Harris and Taylor of Old Bond street or french houses like Roger & Gallet, floral colognes and after shaves were always an integral part of the offerings for the well groomed man. The distict gender classicfication of these notes is a later phenomenon, no doubt linked to factors like marketing, trends and other cultural development.

Unfortunately the overall impression of the fragrance left me somewhat underwhelmed, I guess I expected a little more - afterall Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet is a favourite of mine. Since, I've warmed up to it slightly but there is a powdery dryness in the heart notes which just doesn't sit well on my skin. The overall quality is stellar though, literally smells luxurious, and on the right person I think this could give the perfect ambiance of understated elegance with just the right, subtle opulent twist. An aromatic, heady, nostalgic and traditional oriental. Good stuff - just not for me.

Year of Launch: 1872
Gender Classification: Unisex
Reminiscent of: Hermès Hiris, Acqua di Parma Colonia, L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses, Emanuel Ungaro Ungaro III
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate sillage, above average staying power
Overall rating: 7/10

The Citrus Anatomy Part I - Monsieur Balmain

2008-08-16T17:13:00.000-07:00

Colognes, as in Kölnisch Wassers - or simply citrus scents, are one of my favourite categories of fragrance. Not much can beat the invigorating freshness of a zesty cologne before heading out on a hot, sunny summer day. In this section, The Citrus Anatomy, I´ll be looking a little closer at this genre and examining the different nuances of some of the classics - both traditional and modern. First out a french bad boy that was reformulated in 1990.

I've always wanted to "freeze" the lemon/citrus topnotes of many of my favourite colognes. I felt Dior's Eau Sauvage, Hermès´s Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Rochas pour homme and particularly the original Lacoste would benefit from prolonged citrus presence.

Then I tried Monsieur Balmain...

The initial, slightly bitter but insanely clean, lemon blast gives Monsieur Balmain a very promising start to say the least. Then this squeezed lemon and citrus peel note actually stays with you for hours - and guess what? It actually ruins the whole thing. My personal conclusion is that the best classic citruses are the ones with a fresh, zesty opening but with an equally pleasant and elaborate drydown. This progression often settles in some kind of herbal or woody base. Unfortunately the Balmain stays mainly lemon and eventually develops into a faint and not too clean nor pleasant musk. So it's linear and pretty boring, however - if the thought of a long present lemon note excites you the way it did me before, then by all means give this revamped oldie a shot.

I would however recommend trying Penhaligon's excellent Blenheim Bouquet instead, also with longlasting and somewhat bitter citrus, but paired with a refined and elgant, smokey pine making it's structure infinitely more interesting.

When it comes to longevity though, this perhaps the rarest characteristic of the genre, nothing beats Monsieur Balmain. This one really does last, which, may actually be it´s strongest merit.

Overall rating: 5/10

Speed Review: Creed – Green Valley

2008-08-15T02:47:00.000-07:00

Year of Launch: 1999
Gender Classification: Unisex
Availability: In Production

Dominant notes: Mint, Violet Leaves, Blackcurrant , Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Musk.

Reminiscent of: Creed Green Irish Tweed, Christian Dior Fahrenheit, Liz Claiborne Curve
Longevity & Sillage: Mild to moderate sillage, above average longevity for a Creed fragrance
Packaging & Design: Standard Creed flacon with gold print fonts and transparent cap, green carton with white relief print

5 adjectives: Mature, Semi bitter, Rugged, Mossy, Soapy

Overall rating: 8/10

Gant - Gant Silver

2008-08-14T02:08:00.000-07:00

When classic preppy brand Gant first ventured into the world of fragrances, the result wasn't bad at all. Gant Classic from 1997 was by no means groundbreaking or original, but it was a well crafted mossy, fresh fougere with a clear concept and sense of direction. Their sophomore effort - the peachy G2 indicated serious lack of inspiration. Subsequently they´ve continued to put out bland, generic, run of the mill, watered down juices regularly. From the muted grapefruity Indigo to the artificial red pepper mess that is Soho and the aquatic monstrosities known as Adventure and Liquid, all Gant fragrances the last years have been just terrible. There is no other way of putting it.

This fact does seem to have been aknowledged by their responsible people now though. The latest release, Silver, is a serious step up for the brand, in several ways. Before anyone gets too excited I'd describe Silver as something in between Ralph Lauren Polo Sport and Giorgio Armani Code, no grand prize for originality in any way. But fact is that the fresh, ambery and faintly herbal juice works quite well. It´s a woody comfort scent that is perfect for subtle office use. Notes include bergamot, lime, basil, lavender, cardamom, thyme, patchouli, tonka bean and amber.

The packaging, ads and overall concept is executed well, and for the first time in ages the brand has managed to create something that I believe will stand out enough to get just a tad more attention and excitement than other similar, generic launches.

To read the company's own copywriting about Silver being "prestige" and "premium" this and that is just laughable though. This is just an acceptable fragrance, nothing more, nothing less. A somewhat synthetic feeling comfort-concoction that will stick around a few years simply because the competition is that bad right now. With Silver, Gant are right back where they started fragrancewise. A promising (fresh) beginning. Let´s hope they don't start making the same mistakes again.

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Ralph Lauren Polo Sport, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Giorgio Armani Code, Azzaro Onyx, Davidoff Silver Shadow
Longevity & Sillage: Both slightly below average
Overall rating: 5/10

Blu Mediterraneo - Fico di Amalfi

2008-08-14T01:41:00.000-07:00

There comes a time in the life of every fragrance aficionado when you choose your prefered fig, just like your sandalwood, musk, patchouli or vetiver of choice. In fact I´d go as far as claiming that fig, or more correctly fig leaf, is the one note that has become a benchmark for numerous houses the last decade. Shortly, many houses feel they have to represent this increasingly popular ingredient in their ranges. And subsequently we have a lot to choose from: Diptyque´s Philosykos, L'Artisan Parfumeur's Premier Figuier, Hermès´s Mediterranean Garden, Marc Jacobs For men, Davidoff's GoodLife, Salvatore Ferragamo's Pour Homme, Christian Dior's Dune for men - the list goes on... Therefore it´s also fairly easy to compare within this category and find the individual merits of each fragrance. The Acqua di Parma people (like most of the time) certainly suceeded with their take.

Immediately upon application you´ll sense that Fico di Amalfi is a tad more synthetic compared to Diptyque's and L'Artisan's juices, but definitely less artificial smelling then Hermès´s and Marc Jacobs dito. Overall this slightly synthetic touch doesn´t hurt the fragrance or it´s general feel. There is a bit of that same dryness as with most fig-leaf based scents, but FdA also adds a luscious sweetness of crushed fig pulp to the mix along with a sparkling touch of jasmin.

Longevity is excellent although the fragrance is very linear, but I think this is the point with the entire Blu Mediterraneo series, simple, few-note, feel good fragrances at an affordable price. With FdA they continue the good vibe that started with their excellent roasted almond gourmand Mandorlo di Sicilia and the uplifting piney freshness of their Tuscan fougere Cipresso di Toscana.

To sum up the charateristics of Fico di Amalfi in comparison to it´s peers and competitors I´d say it´s less dry, mossy and green than Philosykos, lacking the milky almond note from Premier Figuier, completely absent of the acidity in Un Jardin en Mediterranée, avoiding the coconut-sun-tan-lotion bonanza of Marc Jacobs - but instead sporting a fleshy-fruit sweetness and a plesant cedar base balancing the composition very well. Also the staying power is probably the best within this genre. A big thumbs up, and just like Guerlains Aqua Allegoria line, AdP have found a consequent and interesting aesthetic in this range - Blu Mediterraneo, that will hopefully release more care free, sunny and high quality fragrances in the future.

Review originally published on http://www.basenotes.net/

Year of Launch: 2006
Gender Classification: Unisex
Reminiscent of: Diptyque Philosykos, Hermès Un Jardin en Mediterranée, L'Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier
Longevity & Sillage: Both excellent

Overall rating: 7/10

Christian Dior – Escale à Portofino

2008-08-11T23:55:00.001-07:00

Don’t let the tall, striking, round flacon fool you… Unfortunately Escale à Portofino is not in the same division as Dior’s three previous colognes: Eau Noir, Cologne Blanche and Bois D’Argent. Not even the same universe. Of course this latest Dior hasn’t been marketed as a follow up to that brilliant trio, but the luxurious packaging and old school ad easily gives one that impression.

But what we have here is just an other Eau de Cologne. Kölnisch wasser. Agua di Colonia. A simple citrus with some anchoring herbal notes. And almond! First of all I love a good cologne, classic or new, and secondly I can’t remember trying any other citrus cologne with a pronounced almond note. This microscopic stroke of genius on perfumer François Demachy’s part is enough to keep ones interest just a little further.

The juice sports plenty of classic cologne notes such as bergamot, citron, orange blossom, cedar and white musk. Soapy, zesty and fresh are the main adjectives that come to mind when smelling it. As far as the ad gearing it to women, this is nonsense in my opinion. Escale à Portofino smells just as unisex as any classic citrus to me, perhaps even a bit to the masculine side compared to for instance 4711.

And at the end of the day Escale à Portofino is definitely a competent citrus (unlike Dior Homme Sport – which we will get to in a bit…) with a bit longer staying power than the grand classics from Guerlain and a bit more exclusive feel than other modern colognes like Eau de Rochas Homme or Lancôme´s Ô. An invigorating feel good juice for the summer with a touch of exclusive, soapy cleanliness.

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Feminine, works for everyone though
Reminiscent of: Chanel Allure Homme Sport Cologne, 4711, Guerlain Imperiale, Pierre Balmain Monsieur Balmain, Azzaro Pure Cedrat
Longevity & Sillage: Both average, which for a fizzy citrus is somewhat of a feat
Overall rating: 6/10

Thierry Mugler - Angel Men Pure Coffee

2008-08-08T01:16:00.000-07:00

The original A*Men is one of the most complex mainstream fragrances available. With this in mind, the result is nothing short of flawless. There are so many facets to that classic that you can hardly count them. I haven't experienced a single one of it's drydowns to be quite the same yet. There is always some new nuance stepping up, be it another shade of the earthy patchouli, spicy lavender, burnt sugar, dark and bitter coffe or that weird but lovely tar note.

In this new, interim flanker release from Mugler the focus is obviously on the coffee bit. And what a lovely cup they´ve managed to emulate. Dark, steaming, sharp java is what the top notes immediately hit you with. The coffee accord stays pretty strong during the entire progression of the fragrance, and like it´s big brother the longevity is excellent. The sillage and projection are a bit toned down compared to the original though, which isn´t necessarily a bad thing, especially for summer and spring wear.

Overall Angel Men Pure Coffee is a somewhat redundant gourmand release, but in the wait for the next big Mugler fragrance for men this patchouli espresso is a keeper. With it´s similarities to A*Men but significantly muted sillage it´s also a decent alternative for people who find the original too strong and eccentric. Naturally,with that trade off, what you win in wearability you certainly lose in originality.

Year of Launch: 2008

Gender Classification: Masculine

Reminiscent of: Thierry Mugler A*Men, Bond No 9 New Harlem, Yohji Yamamoto Yohji, Rochas Man

Longevity & Sillage: Excellent longevity, moderate sillage

Overall rating: 6/10

Comme des Garçons - parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense

2008-08-06T04:23:00.000-07:00

It´s impossible not to admire Comme des Garçons for their great integrity and artistic approach to making fragrances. This was especially true before the Sweet-series and the recent Guerillas, which are fine as well, but a bit too mainstream. No other house, fairly large that is, could or would put out a series like this. No Demeter fragrance library here - these are all standalone scents with great character. The different nuances balancing the incense range from sweet to woody, smokey and smoulderingly spicy. My reflections concern mainly three out of the five available ones, excluding Kyoto and Zagorsk.

Avignon is definitely the most straightforward "churchey" one of the lot. The comparison to Etro´s Messe de Minuit must be made. They are certainly similar, but I would argue that Avignon is far superior and above all much more wearable. Messe de Minuit stays with the gothic theme during it´s entire progression, never leaving that catholic mass groove, whereas Avignon is significantly softened by the vanilla and chamomille that appear quickly alongside the frankincense and myrrh. The subtle vanilla also prevents it from becoming to cold and musty. Avignon could be described as a mix of MdM and Gucci Rush, with the originality of the first and the pleasant, powdery wearability of the latter.

For me, Jaisalmer is easily the most challenging fragrance in this series. I suspect there´s a good amount of raw vetiver in there. A note that with it´s earthy and soily qualities certainly is not a favourite of mine. I do however like this fragrance anyway. It is intensely smokey and spicy. I get images of campfires and charred pieces of wood when wearing it - and I like it! Jaisalmer is intensely dry, a bit dirty and very masculine, would not want to smell this on my girlfriend. Like many CdG´s it is an aquired taste, so don´t buy blind. It´s siblings in the Incense-series are mucher safer bets if you´re into incense and want a cool avantgarde approach to it. Jaisalmer´s staying power outlasts all of the others easily though.

If Jaisalmer is the most challenging and Avignon the most eccentric in the Incense-series, Ouarzazate is their playful cousin. Carefree, light and very easy to wear. There´s a strong bergamot note in the opening that stays with the fragrance during it´s evolution. This adds an orange like dimension to it and also makes it smell a bit like a hot cup of tea. Additionally the incense is much more muted here than in the others. I partly agree on the comparison to Gucci Pour Homme. They definitely share a dry cedar base, but there is very little pine or smoke in this one. More of a fizzy, slightly herbal and optimistic addition to this excellent range. Not great sillage but stays on the skin for a long time.

Year of Launch: 2002 for all 5 fragrances

Gender Classification: All are unisex

Longevity & Sillage: All decent, Jaisalmer excellent

Overall rating: 9/10 for the series as a whole

Speed Review: Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme

2008-07-14T09:41:00.000-07:00

Year of Launch: 1994

Gender Classification: Masculine

Availability: In Production
Dominant notes: Bergamot, tarragon, lavender, sweet tobacco, musk
Reminiscent of: Versace The Dreamer, O Boticario Uomini, YSL L'Homme

Longevity & Sillage: Both stellar

Packaging & Design: Simple clean and classic flacon with good finish, nice dark blue packaging with velvety, suede feel.
5 adjectives: Mediterranean, dominant, sharp, daring, complex
Overall rating: 7/10

Hermès - Un Jardin Après La Mousson

2008-07-08T12:01:00.000-07:00

Un Jardin Après La Mousson is the third, but hopefully not the last, instalment in Jean-Claude Ellena's Garden Series.

As I've written before on Basenotes about Comme de Garcons Incense Series there's a leisure cool and above all strong sense of luxury to the concept of exploring variations and different facets of a certain theme in several fragrances. This very much applies to this line of Hermès scents. Such an approach of course demands focus, great talent and serious inspiration by the creator. Thankfully all these criteria are, in my view, the trademark of Ellena's work so far.

Un Jardin Après La Mousson breaks the mould a bit compared to the previous two, but the breezy, fruity, fun and lightly floral touch that characterized Un Jardin En Méditerranée (2003) and Un Jardin Sur Le Nil (2005) is definitely present here as well. The previous two had fig and mango in the limelight, whereas this latest launch apparently focuses on the kahli ginger flower. I also pick up the juiciness of watermelon and cucumber. The latter note briefly made me think of Esté Lauders Beyond Paradise for men, clearly an inferior fragrance in every way, but still there is some kinship between the two. Another one that comes to mind, but in a much more abstract way is Diors Fahrenheit, I can't put my finger on what exactly the common denominator is, perhaps there is some honeysuckle in the Hermès? Apart from these slight similarities Un Jardin Après La Mousson is a very unique fragrance, shining in an exceptional, transparent way. Just the muted and delicate use of cardamom, usually one of my most hated notes, shows Ellena's brilliant way of using ordinary ingredients in extraordinary ways.

It has been said before that Ellena´s approach to perfumery is that of an artist painting with water colours. This description is spot on, especially in the case of the garden series. Other creations, such as Eau de Merveilles and Terre de Hermès, have a tad of darkness to them. This trio instead is all about fun and joie de vivre, but without losing the feeling of exclusivity for one second. All three have an impressionistic, youthful and almost naïve feeling to them. Truly a proud continuation of this house's already great legacy in the world of fragrances.

And, as always with Hermès, the packaging and ads are perfect and wonderfully representing the contents of the bottle.

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Unisex
Reminiscent of: Esté Lauders Beyond Paradise for men (ever so slightly...), Christian Dior Fahrenheit (in a very abstract way), Kenzo Pour Homme
Longevity & Sillage: I find the longevity of all the Jardins to be excellent, however
the sillage on this one as well as the others is limited
Overall rating: 8/10

Davidoff - Cool Water

2008-07-08T11:12:00.000-07:00

Recently I´ve become increasingly relativistic in judging and reevaluating older fragrances. Like many members on the Basenotes Community Board I very strongly dislike where the mainstream fragrance industry is heading and has developed the last couple of years. Way too much effort is put into packaging, limited editions, summer versions, ridiculous pyramid copywriting and such. Genuine creativity and originality has dissappeared in favour of hype and politically correct and synthetic scents that aim to please as many consumers as possible.

Further there is a growing trend of "dual" markets for the big brands. Dior have their 3 upscale colognes, Guerlain their L'Art et la Matiere series, Chanel their Rue Cambon, Hermès their Hermenessences - the list goes on... Practically this means we now have to pay about 3 times more for the same quality that was standard issue during the 80´s while the conglomerates squeeze every penny out of each aquired franchise with their "special editions" and summer versions - products that seldomly even make it to next year.

Unfortunately all kinds of new sub-par "niche" houses have popped up as well recently, capitalizing on peoples quest for the genuine. Fancy packaging and claims (hardly controllable) of all natural ingredients hardly justifies the prices asked by for instance Profumum. In my opinion you earn your respect by decades of quality output. Sadly many lose it much faster in the race for quick success today.

So how does this rant relate to my reveevaluation and growing fondness of Cool Water? A few years ago I dissmissed this fragrance sharply. But recently I started sampling it again and it grew on me with each try. I started to think of it with a strong sense of nostalgia and even appreciated it´s simple old school bottle. The Green Irish Tweed reference is unavoidable, especially since that Creed (in this rare case) is the original. And sure, GIT has more bite and complexity, but CW is close, much closer than the price tag would indicate.

Cool Water is a simple fresh fougere that works perfectly on a mild spring day. Less marine than the concept indicates, I´d say its a herbal, slightly peppery scent with a strong base of oakmoss, musk and pleasant cedar. The overall impression is, pardon the cliche, a modern masculine classic.

I eventually bought a bottle and it has served me very well in the office the last couple of months.

Cool Water, together with Acqua di Gió and Eternity may very well be the initiators of todays downward spiral of forced freshness. But compared to all the mediocre new stuff released, especially by Davidoff themselves, Cool Water will always remain a nice alternative. Good Stuff.
Review originally published on www.basenotes.net

Year of Launch: 1988
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Creed Green Irish Tweed, Calvin Klein Eternity
Longevity & Sillage: Both Average
Overall rating: 7/10

Diptyque - Tam Dao

2008-07-06T03:24:00.000-07:00

The keyword for Diptyque's Tam Dao is definitely creamy. This is no nonsense sandalwood with just a few additional, anchoring notes. The opening cypress blast is quite herbal and astringent, but quickly it settles into the creamy smoothness that we so familiarly associate with sandalwood in perfumery. Complementing notes include cedar wood - adding a nice balancing dryness to the luscious protagonist, and a subtle use of incense that strongly reinforces the evocative and spiritual quality of the fragrance. The small elephants on the beautiful graphic print of the flacon further pay homage to India and the exclusive main ingredient.

Criticism towards Tam Dao is often based on its lacking evolution and it being somewhat of a mono-note fragrance. Both these assertions are true to a certain extent, however since the rendition of the sandalwood itself is so flawless, in my view Tam Dao easily belongs to the top fragrances in this category despite its limited development.

In slight contrast to its tranquil character, I've found that Tam Dao works particularly well in bar and club environments as the subtle spiciness blends exceptionally well with cigarette smoke.

To conclude, this Diptyque is a warm, spicy and above all creamy take on sandalwood. A serene, Zen like fragrance that'll sooth any troubled mind with its peaceful nature.

Year of Launch: 2003
Reminiscent of: Kenzo Jungle, Gucci Envy, Yves Saint Laurent M7, Lorenzo Villoresi Sandalo
Longevity & Sillage: Excellent longevity - stays on my skin the entire day. Decent sillage - nice but not overpowering output.
Overall rating: 7/10

First shot

2008-07-04T11:43:00.000-07:00

Test One