The Citrus Anatomy Part IV – Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée

Jacques Polge’s flawless 1989 update of the classic Pour Monsieur is indeed stronger compared to the original, but above all of a superior craft. It feels considerably more modern, but not edgy in any way. Added to the wonderful initial blasts of various citrus fruits are clear notes of nutmeg, cardamom and something smelling slightly like coconut. The basenotes feature a sweet creaminess, an oriental vanilla not unlike the one found in numerous Guerlain perfumes, that is perfectly balanced with the by then fading spices and dry mossy heart.

Pour Monsieur Concentrée is actually more reminiscent of Dior´s Eau Sauvage than the original Pour Monsieur, the latter being a straightforward citrusy chypre while both PMC and Eau Sauvage transcend traditional categorization and have way more intangible compositions. In my experience the truly great citrus fragrances have at least one of two parameters: Superior, often natural smelling ingredients, like Eau de Rochas Pour Homme and Annick Goutal´s Eau de Hadrien, or a level of abstraction that makes them rise above the genre in general, like New York from Parfums de Nicolaï. This Chanel easily fulfills both those criteria. Comfortable and truly a class act.

Overall rating: 7/10