Monday, February 9, 2009

Forgotten Gems Part V: Etro Heliotrope

SUBTLE SUGAR RUSH. Heliotrope - a very nice, albeit understated, cologne from the Italian masters of eccentric paisley Etro, is often unfairly overlooked in the discussions about the great gourmands. This is the aroma of bitter sweet almonds on a bed of white flowers sprayed with caramel milk. Even though heliotrope notes have been quite widely used historically, this rendition adds beautiful layers of cherry and soft tobacco creating a sublime pastry like impression. This is not just pure marzipan.

As mentioned, sillage is not its forte, but this is hardly an issue as I suspect a strength increase would just make it overtly sweet and cloying. Also I was quite surprised to learn that this was released in 1989 as it comes across as much more contemporary and soft compared to what stuff generally smelled like then. A fact that further proves Heliotrope was ahead of the curve and probably has served as an inspiration for fragrances like Dior's Bois d'Argent, L'Artisan Parfumeur's Bois Farine and Cerutti Black.

Captivating, precious and gentle.

Overall Rating: 7/10

Monday, February 2, 2009

Speed Review: Lalique White

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Masculine
Perfumer: Christine Nagel
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Lemon leaves, tamarind, bergamot, violet, white pepper, nutmeg, amber, cedar , musk
Reminiscent of: Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche, L'Eau par Kenzo pour Homme, Dior Homme Sport
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate sillage, average longevity
Packaging & Design: Broad shouldered matte white flacon, somewhat dissapointing given the brands prestigious history of crystal craftsmanship
5 adjectives: Contemporary, safe, citrusy, hesperidic, smooth
Overall rating: 6/10