Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Hermès - Voyage d' Hermès Parfum

AN EVEN SMOOTHER RIDE. This years introduction of an intense version (pure perfume) of the original Voyage will surely please many since the original (Eau de Toilette) was widely considered too weak and fleeting. Personally I didn't have any particular longevity issues with the latter. I did however immensely enjoy its peppery, white musk soapy freshness.

Those characteristics pretty much remain in the top notes of this update, now mingling with the added heart and base of rose and soft amber. The signature cardamom of Jean-Claude Ellena blends exceptionally well with the new somewhat warmer accord. The overall impression of the drydown is that of an rare oriental tea with hints of fizzy citrus, astringent herbs and honeyed blond woods. Crisp juniper adds a dry cleanliness. Elegant and somewhat restrained - as most often with this house.

The Hermès copy presenting this as an evening version of the original is quite clever and spot on. Whereas the original with it´s translucent lemon tang and peppery cedar serves as the perfect morning tonic, the intense version with it´s more seamless progression and soft ambery edges would be an ideal companion for a night out with dinner and opera. Both are excellent and complement each other beatifully.

Year of Launch: 2012

Gender Classification: Unisex

Reminiscent of: Editions de Parfums de Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie, Penhaligon´s Juniper Sling

Longevity & Sillage: Moderate sillage, above average longevity

Overall Rating: 7/1o

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Speed Review: Viktor & Rolf - Spicebomb



Year of launch: 2012
Gender classification: Masculine
Perfumer: Olivier Polge
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: bergamot, pink pepper, cinnamon, vetiver, red pepper, tobacco accord, chili, saffron, leather, grapefruit and elemi.
Reminiscent of: Kenzo Power, Tommy Hilfiger Loud, Paul Smith Man
Packaging & Design: Stylized Hand grenade heavy smoked glass flacon, designed by Fabien Baron
Longevity & Sillage: Standard sillage, well above average longevity - really clings to skin
5 adjectives: Powdery, androgynous, clean, tart, contemporary

Overall rating: 6/10