Speed Review: Hermès - Santal Massoia

Year of launch: 2011

Gender classification: Unisex

(leaning slightly to the feminine side)
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Sandalwood, massoia bark, coconut
Reminiscent of: Eau de Cartier, L'Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine
Longevity & Sillage: Light projection, below average longevity

Packaging & Design: Standard Hermès Hermessence flacon with an elegant light brown brushed suede cap
5 adjectives: Milky, sweet, airy, floral, woody
Overall Rating: 6,5/10

Marc Jacobs - Bang Bang

BANG FOR THE BUCK. Apart from the somewhat silly and uninspired name, Bang Bang by Marc Jacobs is actually a very competent flanker to last years successful original.

Just like Bang, the dry, peppery woody base remains but has now been updated with a modern minty top and some opening creamy citrus notes. This adds some welcome herbal plumpness and a zesty sting to the rough, smoky vetiver heart. Deep notes of sage and patchouli mellow the overall impression for a significantly smoother ride compared to the original.

Part of the charm of the original was it´s coarse and minimalist approach, which - at the same -time easily turns into monotony and ultimately boredom. Not so with this update. Overall a more complete and wearable fun fragrance. Uplifting, modern and masculine.

Additional official notes include lemon, fennel, cardamom, sandalwood and cashmere musks.

Year of Launch: 2011
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Geranium pour Monsieur, Hermès Poivre Samarcande, Armani Sport Code
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate projection, very good staying power
Overall Rating: 7/1o

GUIDE - Fragrances for Fall/www.manolo.se

Sweden´s premiere Men´s Style Blog, www.manolo.se, recently published my guide on fragrances especially suited for autumn. Article in Swedish here: http://www.manolo.se/artiklar/artikel/20110808/varma-hostdofter

Speed Review: Creed - Aventus

Year of launch: 2010
Gender classification: Masculine
Perfumer: Olivier & Erwin Creed
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Blackcurrant, bergamot, apple, pineapple, patchouli, oak moss, musk, ambergris and vanilla.
Reminiscent of: Ralph Lauren Romance Silver, Armani Attitude, Paco Rabanne Black XS for Him
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate to good projection, excellent staying power
Packaging & Design: Standard Creed flacon with added black leather wrap and silver plaquet
5 adjectives: Fruity, smoky, crisp, mossy, elegant
Overall Rating: 8/10

DSQUARED2 - Potion

A LIGHTER SHADE OF PALE. DSQUARED2: s first foray into masculine perfumery, He Wood (2007), was a competent albeit simple blend of violets and vetiver. Uncomplicated, yet instantly recognizable and pleasant. Since then a few flankers have appeared, all of them with some merit of their own. All in all a good olfactory resume so far for the extravagant Caten-twins Dean and Dan.

Therefore I was quite excited to try out their latest launch - Potion. Additionally, the nose is the esteemed Annick Ménardo, creator of previous brilliance like Bulgari Black, YSL Body Kouros and Dior’s Bois D'Argent.

And Potion does deliver. But, unfortunately far too weakly. The longevity and sillage of this is incredibly low – more like a fragrant whisper than the eau de parfum strength signalled on the great looking apothecary style flacon… Three spritzes faded into oblivion within an hour on my skin. This really is a pity on this woodsy, spicy and innovative concoction.

During it's brief presence, Potion delivers a smooth, minty almost absinthe-tinged ride. The opening is boldly boozy, herbal and slightly bitter but rapidly mellows down to gentle spices and dry woods. The main accord is austere and strict , creating an almost pale/white impression where very classic ingredients come together in a contemporary manner - much like Comme des Garcons' early stuff.

Official notes include red mint leaves, angelica, thyme, rose petals, black peppercorns, gentian, cinnamon, cashmere wood, patchouli, amber and musk. A note missing from the official list is nutmeg, which I pick up strongly - especially on the dry down. Hints of smoky incense, dry cedar and soft amber purr together before Potion fades out completely.

Overall Potion is a well crafted, fairly original blend obviously made from high quality ingredients. This clearly stands out from the majority of new designer releases and reinforces the obviously high ambitions of this particular house regarding fragrances. Creative and extremely wearable.

Ultimately, and unfortunately so, the insanely low staying power and projection significantly lowers the overall experience. Hopefully DSQUARED2 puts out an “extreme” version or something in that direction soon. Apparently the wide range of ancillary products features a perfume oil version that might be worth looking up in hopes of increased output.

Year of Launch: 2011
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Gucci Pour Homme, L’Artisan Parfumeur Fou d’Absinthe, Cacharel Pour Homme, Hermès Eau de Gentian Blanche, Comme des Garcons White
Longevity & Sillage: Both unfortunately extremely low
Overall Rating: 6/1o

The Citrus Anatomy part V - Guerlain Homme L´Eau

The latest instalment in Guerlain´s Homme-series is actually the by far most accomplished yet. Better and more balanced than both the original and intense versions, L´Eau is highly wearable for summer and crisp fall days. It retains the rum/mojito accord from the original and has a cool, bracing mint note. The harsh and synthetic wood accord from previous versions has been replaced by classic eau de cologne notes with zesty citrus, pungent herbs and icy geranium.

Additional notes include lime, bergamot, grapefruit, cedar and vetiver.

For me this is a perfect update of Hermès Eau de orange verte concentrée. Same elegant classic style but with better longevity and some added complexity. The frosted glass flacon looks good and represents the content very well. Good projection and excellent staying power. Overall a winner and perhaps more importantly - finally a modern classic for Guerlain´s in house perfumer Thierry Wasser.


Overall rating: 8/10

Speed Review: Tom Ford - Azure Lime

Year of launch: 2010
Gender classification: Unisex
Perfumer: Unknown
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Lime, Neroli, Juniper, Valencia Orange, Basil, Mint, Musk, something aquatic (calone?)
Reminiscent of: Christian Dior Eau Sauvage, Hermès Eau d´Orange Concentree
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate on both accounts
Packaging & Design: Standard Tom Ford rectangular dark brown glass flacon
5 adjectives: Vivid, sparkling, zesty, aquatic, herbal
Overall Rating: 6/10

Hermès-Hermessence

A(I)RISTOCRACY. French masters of equestrian elegance - Hermès - are described as one of the last outposts of true luxury in Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster by journalist Dana Thomas (2007). I agree with Ms. Thomas’ assessment – their sense of quality and craft are certainly reflected in the selection of fragrances on offer.

In the Hermessence-line in house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena explores different high quality raw materials in “olfactory poems”. This concept of simple, yet personal and original perfume goes especially well with Mr. Ellena’s trade mark airy “legere” style.

My encounters with this range follow below – beginning with my favorite ones (and continuing in descending order).

Vetivér Tonka: Much like L´Occitanes’ Vetyver this is not a vetiver for the hardcore aficionados of the pungent grass/root. Rather Vetivér Tonka takes a mild and tempered approach to vetiver with soft complementing notes. A slight smokiness does however remain, mingling beautifully with sweet caramelized hazelnuts and mellow tobacco. Official notes include Neroli, Bergamot, Vetiver, Roasted Hazelnuts, Dried Fruit, Cereals and Tonka Bean – but the blend is seamless and mostly radiates of a peppery, clean masculinity.

Vetivér Tonka is an incredibly elegant fragrance. Discreet, yet as sharp as a meticulously tailored grey flannel suit. There are similarities to some of Ellenas’ other work, especially Terre d’ Hermès, but I strongly prefer the crisp and straight forward composition of VT. Liquid sophistication.

Ambre Narguilé: This is gourmand done right. Ambre Narguilé perfectly balances “edible” notes with thought and moderation. The end result is best described as a classy and highly wearable cinnamon apple pie. Boss Bottled from Hugo Boss is a bit in this direction but ultimately ventures into synthetic mess. AN instead excels in its ambition of transparent contemporary oriental with sweet honey, creamy vanilla and smoky dried fruits.

Official notes include benzoin, labdanum, musk, vanilla, caramel, honey, sugared tonka bean, grilled sesame seeds, cinnamon, rum, coumarine and white orchids. Rich, dense and opulent – but never too much. Amazing longevity and decent sillage on this one.

Poivre Samarcande: In some ways Poivre Samarcande feels like a tribute to classic Eau d'Hermès. They definitely share the same “dirty” yet refined vibe – most certainly thanks to cumin. At the same time PS is quite modern and not unlike some othercontemporary stuff out there - I suspect this is due to some usage of Iso-E Super.

For instance Poivre Samarcande is similar, to Bang by Marc Jacobs. Similar but vastly superior. I just love the dry, crackling black pepper and salty leather notes in this. Official notes include black pepper, Chili pepper, Oak, Cedar, Musk and Chinese Moss. Spicy, warm and slightly animalic.

Rose Ikebana: A stunningly bright take on rose. Ellena’s trade mark is instantly recognizable in Rose Ikebana that shares a strong resemblance with Eau de Pamplemousse Rose – especially with a sparkling grapefruit note – but also some similarities to the lovely tartness found in the Jardin-series. A natural, tangy rhubarb adds instant freshness to the dewey and gentle rose petals. The overall feeling is of a moist beautiful garden with plump fruit and lush greenery. Delicate, sheer and extremely wearable for men and women alike. Impossible to dislike. According to others longevity on my skin is far better than I perceived myself. Official notes include rose petals, peony, magnolia, pink peppercorns, grapefruit zest, green rhubarb, vanilla, honey, and black tea.

Paprika Brasil: Beautiful and original, Paprika Brasil is by far the most feminine in the range to my nose. Here dry, powdery and floral iris is paired with austere cedar wood. The result is a chillingly chic blend that I picture to be the perfect choice for formal galas or dinners. For women that is. PB is just too much femme fatale for me –its aroma immediately conjures up images of lipstick and expensive red stilettos in my mind. Official notes include pimento, clove and paprika Iris and green leaves Reseda, ember wood and “woody notes”.

Brin de réglisse: In many ways a departure from the rest of the series. Brin de réglisse is more direct and brutal than it’s siblings. The opening immediately has intense licorice and pungent lavender battling it out before settling into a mellow, creamy base of said notes. Reminds me of a slightly less complex but deeper version of Piguet´s Cravache. Fun but unfortunately very fleeting. Personally I think Eau de réglisse by Caron does this concept more effectively, with better staying power and way cheaper. Official notes include lavender, licorice, orange blossom, hay, incense, vanilla and leather.

Iris Ukioyé: Clean and pleasant iris fragrance. Somewhat more contemporary ambiance compared to Olivia Giacobetti’s masterpiece Hiris from 1999. Competent but ultimately unexciting compared to others in the range.

Vanille Galante: For a lack of better words I would describe this as an “organic” vanilla. Very far from the synthetic vanilla accords that are so commonplace in perfumery of today. Vanille Galant has a fleshy substance to it with some indolic notes. Very vivid and not sweet at all. Think of bitter and smoky vanilla pods together with blossoming orchids and pungent jasmine - original and cool. Floral, sharp and quite feminine.

Osmanthe Yunnan: Someone at Basenotes described this one perfectly as smoky, milky apricot tea. Osmanthe Yunnan is gentle and mild and features a toned down version of that peachy suede accord that is found in many of Serge Luten´s creations. On my skin OY wears a tad too weak - it just doesn’t really take off. Nevertheless a pleasant ride while it lasts. Official notes include: Yunan Tea, Orange, Freesia, Osmanthus, Apricot and Leather.

Year of Launch: 2004-2009
Gender Classification: All are unisex – Vetivér Tonka, Ambré Narguilé, Poivre Samarcande & Un brin de réglisse belong to the more masculine ones.
Longevity & Sillage: Great variations – moderate longevity & sillage as a whole with Ambré Narguilé being the big exception.
Overall rating: 8/10 for the series as a whole.

No More Than meets The Eye - part III: Acqua di Parma

Italian luxe brand Acqua di Parmas' advertising follows the sharp Art Deco-design of their near iconic packaging. Aspirational images and models are put aside in favor of strong graphic character and flacon focus.

(All pictures courtesy of: www.parfumsdepub.net)

Speed Review: Lacoste (Original)

Year of launch: 1984
Gender classification: Masculine
Perfumer: Unknown
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Lemon, citrus, menthol, clove, sandalwood
Reminiscent of: Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Monsieur de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate sillage, good longevity
Packaging & Design: Sporty, deep green glass flacon with white panels screaming Tennis!
5 adjectives: Soapy, mossy, clean, rugged, refreshing
Overall Rating: 7/10

Forgotten Gems Part V: Etro Heliotrope

SUBTLE SUGAR RUSH. Heliotrope - a very nice, albeit understated, cologne from the Italian masters of eccentric paisley Etro, is often unfairly overlooked in the discussions about the great gourmands. This is the aroma of bitter sweet almonds on a bed of white flowers sprayed with caramel milk. Even though heliotrope notes have been quite widely used historically, this rendition adds beautiful layers of cherry and soft tobacco creating a sublime pastry like impression. This is not just pure marzipan.

As mentioned, sillage is not its forte, but this is hardly an issue as I suspect a strength increase would just make it overtly sweet and cloying. Also I was quite surprised to learn that this was released in 1989 as it comes across as much more contemporary and soft compared to what stuff generally smelled like then. A fact that further proves Heliotrope was ahead of the curve and probably has served as an inspiration for fragrances like Dior's Bois d'Argent, L'Artisan Parfumeur's Bois Farine and Cerutti Black.

Captivating, precious and gentle.

Overall Rating: 7/10

Speed Review: Lalique White

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Masculine
Perfumer: Christine Nagel
Availability: In production
Dominant Notes: Lemon leaves, tamarind, bergamot, violet, white pepper, nutmeg, amber, cedar , musk
Reminiscent of: Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche, L'Eau par Kenzo pour Homme, Dior Homme Sport
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate sillage, average longevity
Packaging & Design: Broad shouldered matte white flacon, somewhat dissapointing given the brands prestigious history of crystal craftsmanship
5 adjectives: Contemporary, safe, citrusy, hesperidic, smooth
Overall rating: 6/10

Aramis - Bermuda Tonic

PINEAPPLE EXPRESS. In the present cold and dark European winter, one's mind easily wanders away toward carefree summer days and dreams of a nice tropical vacation. Very light and breezy and not something for a cold climate or mindset - Bermuda Tonic from Estée Lauders Aramis-line is just what would suit such a day of relaxing in the sun.

This is basically a "resort fragrance", very Piña Colada-ish featuring a pleasant blend of bitter rhum, sweet coconut and juicy pineapples. The overall impression is very crisp with a lightly salty touch reminiscent of sea and wind. A slightly astringent lime remains troughout the development of the fragrance.

This is a tonic however and intentionally designed to be sprayed very liberally since it's quite weak- so beware of seriously fleeting character.

Closest sibling is Creed's Virgin Island Water and whilst the latter is definitely the better of the two, it's hardly worth the much steeper price.

To conclude, Bermuda Tonic is a good, fun and leisure fragragrance. In it's inviting packaging, it was a nice 2005 release of Lauder and a welcome strenghtening of their portfolio after some dissapointing launches.

Year of Launch: 2005
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Creed Virgin Island Water, Calvin Klein Obsession Night for Men, Jil Sander Sun

Longevity & Sillage: Both below average
Overall Rating: 6/1o

The Citrus Anatomy Part IV – Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée

Jacques Polge’s flawless 1989 update of the classic Pour Monsieur is indeed stronger compared to the original, but above all of a superior craft. It feels considerably more modern, but not edgy in any way. Added to the wonderful initial blasts of various citrus fruits are clear notes of nutmeg, cardamom and something smelling slightly like coconut. The basenotes feature a sweet creaminess, an oriental vanilla not unlike the one found in numerous Guerlain perfumes, that is perfectly balanced with the by then fading spices and dry mossy heart.

Pour Monsieur Concentrée is actually more reminiscent of Dior´s Eau Sauvage than the original Pour Monsieur, the latter being a straightforward citrusy chypre while both PMC and Eau Sauvage transcend traditional categorization and have way more intangible compositions. In my experience the truly great citrus fragrances have at least one of two parameters: Superior, often natural smelling ingredients, like Eau de Rochas Pour Homme and Annick Goutal´s Eau de Hadrien, or a level of abstraction that makes them rise above the genre in general, like New York from Parfums de Nicolaï. This Chanel easily fulfills both those criteria. Comfortable and truly a class act.

Overall rating: 7/10

Burberry - Brit for Men

A few mainstream designer houses have a fragrance portfolio that is unexpectedly impressive, producing progressive and quality stuff long after their clothes and overall aesthetic jumped the shark. A very good example is pre-Light Blue Dolce & Gabbana. Even though the designers themselves are somewhat of a sellout joke nowadays, licensing their names to pretty much anything and targeting teenagers with their tacky logo ridden garments, their perfume section is still going strong. From the tobacco heavy pour Homme via the musky amber bomb By trough to the pleasant citrus of D&G Masculine and the comforting woods of The One, Dolce & Gabbana fragrances are simply good.

Another case in point – Burberry. Even though Burberry still produces exclusive clothing and high quality luxury items, especially under the Prorsum label, the brand undoubtedly has been somewhat watered down the last decade. Similar to Tommy Hilfiger in the early 90´s, Burberrys fell for the temptation of catering to logo loving casuals and football hooligans, thus making the brand associations less appealing for the trench coat- and luxury bag buyers. Under the excellent supervision of Christopher Bailey they are back on track though, and the perfume side is strong as ever, Brit for Men being an excellent illustration. Other high-quality Burberry fragrances include the violety sweet Touch, the boozy green London and the highly versatile minty fresh Burberry for Men.

Many are a bit underwhelmed when first sampling Brit. And sure, this is not a sillage monster or Joop! competitor. Instead, Brit is a very cleverly updated modern oriental. It´s sensual and soft and clearly designed to be enjoyed by a loved one close to your skin. Like many L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances, Brit sports a remarkable longevity though; the powdery sweetness lingers subtly for hours.

An immediate association for me is gingerbread, the Swedish Christmas kind with plenty of cardamom. Other notes mingling happily together with the sharp ginger include spicy nutmeg and green zesty mandarins. The heart notes are dominated by a bold rose, obviously a conscious choice of perfumer Antoine Maisondieu. Rose, along with lavender the most characteristically English of notes, was of course a must ingredient to incorporate in this national homage.

National references aside, Brit also serves as a bridge between traditional perfumery and modern. Carelessly blending time honored barbershop tradition with cheeky synthetic accords. The end result is truly greater than the sum of its parts. Maisondieu has created the ideal Hammam Bouquet of the 21: st century. Playful, dandyish and delicate.

Year of Launch: 2004
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Boucheron Jaïpur, Paloma Picasso Minotaure, Chanel Allure Homme
Longevity & Sillage: Limited output, above average longevity
Overall Rating: 8/1o

Speed Review: Annick Goutal - Musc Nomade

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Unisex
Perfumer: Camille Goutal & Isabelle Doyen
Availability: In production
Dominant notes: Musks, rose, agarwood, angelica root, ambrette seed, Bombay wood, Tonka bean
Reminiscent of: Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne, Montale Roses Musk
Longevity & Sillage: Moderate sillage, decent longevity
Packaging & Design: Standard Goutal flacon with the Les Orientalistes graphic, Musc Nomade is the fourth in the series
5 adjectives: Minimalist, intimate, rosey, resinous, smooth

Overall rating: 6/10

Oscar de la Renta - Pour Lui

Oscar de la Renta’s signature scent from 1981 is a powerful and heady floral chypre for men. With massive output typical for 80´s fragrances in general, it firmly lands in the same category as Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme and Floris Elite. This one is vastly superior though, especially compared to the latter brit.

It never takes the floral part too far and settles down to a nice powdery, musk base. But before hitting the base notes you´re in for one generous trip. Arid spices and herbs like carnation, geranium, oakmoss, lavender and cinnamon are embraced by elegant but strong incense. Further notes of vetiver, leather and gloomy florals are anchored by sturdy aldehydes. The aldehydic character makes the whole composition come across a bit like a masculine equivalent of Chanel´s ultra classic No 5.

Pour Lui’s quiet brilliance lies in combining all these diverse ingredients and dissonant notes and coming out on top with a smooth, refined, slightly abstract and mysterious blend.

Very far from the fresh scents of today, in small doses Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui is the perfect complement to a good dark suit. Formal, dry, unique and dense.

Year of Launch: 1981

Gender Classification: Masculine

Reminiscent of: Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme, Floris Elite, Balenciaga Ho Hang Club, Estée Lauder Aramis, Chanel Antaeus, Trussardi Uomo

Longevity & Sillage: Both stellar
Overall Rating: 6/1o

Lorenzo Villoresi - Teint de Neige

The colour of snow is white, as is the colour of powder. And surely Teint de Neige is one of the most powdery fragrances ever created. The description even reads: "The essence of perfumed powders".

This is a somewhat demanding fragrance, make no mistake about it. Some will unquestionably find it too nostalgic, reminiscent of "old things" like their grand mothers make up cabinet or boudoirs in general. Personally I can't wear it myself either, mainly due to the strong tonka bean in the basenotes that doesn't sit well on my skin. But what a fine piece of perfumery it is.

Teint de Neige is like a sleigh ride through beautiful snow clad landscapes. Impressions of jasmin and rose create a profound floral ambiance that attractively transcends into a soft foundation of heliotrope with its characteristically almond like gentle aroma. The slightly astringent quality of ylang ylang prevents it from going too sugary and gives it just a touch of sharpness making the composition even more interesting. After many hours the progression finally settles in creamy sweet musks and a clean talc accord.

If you belong to the people who can pull this Villoresi off, then you are in for a very special treat. Either way, this masterful, cloudy and complex blend deserves some serious respect.

Year of Launch: 2000
Gender Classification: Unisex
Reminiscent of: Lorenzo Villoresi Musk, Etro Heliotrope
Longevity & Sillage: Both well above average
Overall Rating: 8/1o

Speed Review: Gianfranco Ferré - Bergamotto Marino

Year of Launch: 2006

Gender Classification: Unisex

Perfumer: Pierre Bourdon

Availability: In Production

Dominant notes: Bergamot, jasmine, oakmoss, seaweed black currant, musk, orange blossom

Reminiscent of: Diesel Fuel for Life Pour Homme

Longevity & Sillage: Both slightly above average

Packaging & Design: Pretty and classic round glass flacon, but the overall design is just a bit too similar to Frederic Malle's range that was introduced years before...

5 adjectives: Clean, refreshing, gentle, floral, soapy

Overall rating: 7/10

Jean-Paul Gaultier - Fleur du Male

An excellent modern and oriental take on orange blossom, Fleur du Male also has that classic Gaultier level of exuberance and lavishness. Therefore perhaps not best suited for high level board meetings or office use. Instead, wear this to a fun summer night out with good friends.

Although it certainly shares some basenotes with the original, FdM has plenty of merit of it's own. It's warm and spicy but also has a certain "cool" that makes it perfectly wearable in hot weather. Less projection than Le Male, but equally stellar longevity, stays on your skin until you wash it off.

A contemporary, eccentric and self confident neroli for urban hipsters - good stuff.

Year of Launch: 2007
Gender Classification: Masculine
Reminiscent of: Christian Dior Fahrenheit 32, Jean-Paul Gaultier Le male

Longevity & Sillage: Above average sillage, excellent staying power

Overall Rating: 7/1o