Monday, August 11, 2008

Christian Dior – Escale à Portofino

Don’t let the tall, striking, round flacon fool you… Unfortunately Escale à Portofino is not in the same division as Dior’s three previous colognes: Eau Noir, Cologne Blanche and Bois D’Argent. Not even the same universe. Of course this latest Dior hasn’t been marketed as a follow up to that brilliant trio, but the luxurious packaging and old school ad easily gives one that impression.

But what we have here is just an other Eau de Cologne. Kölnisch wasser. Agua di Colonia. A simple citrus with some anchoring herbal notes. And almond! First of all I love a good cologne, classic or new, and secondly I can’t remember trying any other citrus cologne with a pronounced almond note. This microscopic stroke of genius on perfumer François Demachy’s part is enough to keep ones interest just a little further.

The juice sports plenty of classic cologne notes such as bergamot, citron, orange blossom, cedar and white musk. Soapy, zesty and fresh are the main adjectives that come to mind when smelling it. As far as the ad gearing it to women, this is nonsense in my opinion. Escale à Portofino smells just as unisex as any classic citrus to me, perhaps even a bit to the masculine side compared to for instance 4711.

And at the end of the day Escale à Portofino is definitely a competent citrus (unlike Dior Homme Sport – which we will get to in a bit…) with a bit longer staying power than the grand classics from Guerlain and a bit more exclusive feel than other modern colognes like Eau de Rochas Homme or Lancôme´s Ô. An invigorating feel good juice for the summer with a touch of exclusive, soapy cleanliness.

Year of Launch: 2008
Gender Classification: Feminine, works for everyone though
Reminiscent of: Chanel Allure Homme Sport Cologne, 4711, Guerlain Imperiale, Pierre Balmain Monsieur Balmain, Azzaro Pure Cedrat
Longevity & Sillage: Both average, which for a fizzy citrus is somewhat of a feat
Overall rating: 6/10

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