Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Forgotten Gems Part I - Trophée Lancôme

In this section I’m going to be looking a little closer at the forgotten gems of the fragrance world. Not necessarily discontinued, but overlooked or perhaps just drowned out in the ever increasing new releases of each year. Our first subject is the brilliant Trophée
by Lancôme.

With it's background firmly rooted in sport, The Trophée Lancôme was a professional golf tournament which was staged in France from 1970 to 2003, Trophée was launched in 1982. The original flacon, paying hommage to the tournament, is brilliantly quirky in that decadent 80´s way and excellently representing it's content.

he fragrance itself is best described as a classic green chypre. The standard citrus opening is followed by a distinct lavender and jasmin which eventually settle into a generally herbal base with strong woods. Overall impression is herbaceous, confident, grassy and slightly spicy. An instant head turner with it's masculine sillage. Official notes are: Lemon, Basil, Lime, Petitgrain, Patchouli, Bay, Cedar, Jasmine, Musk, Amber, Labdanum and Tonka.

mong it's contemporary peers I'd say Frederic Malle's Bigarade Concentrée comes the closest. But as much as I enjoy that one, Trophée is simply superior both in terms of complexity and output.

pparently Lancôme relaunched Trophée in 2002 after a few years of discontinuation. I have not yet tried the recent edition, but let's hope that the new and boring standard bottle isn't an indication that the formula has been watered down or tampered with in any way... The rich mossiness of the original deserves to find its new fans unaltered.

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